Shell Company
We set out to keep up with brand new Goa openings without forgetting about your favourites. Here’s a gathering of old loves and new pursuits: restaurants, bars, bakeries, B&Bs & hotels. Download before your trip & share as a PDF here.
We set out to keep up with brand new Goa openings without forgetting about your favourites. Here’s a gathering of old loves and new pursuits: restaurants, bars, bakeries, B&Bs & hotels. Download before your trip & share as a PDF here.
Elsewhere, which dates back to 1886, is built on land inherited by two brothers - a priest and a gynecologist. Immaculately conceived on this land now are Goa’s most tasteful beach houses to rent - terracotta and sky blue coloured cottages named after what their roles used to be back then (The Piggery, The Bakery, The Priest’s House, The Captain’s House, The Creek House). Elsewhere also offers three butter yellow creek-facing tents with four poster beds, air conditioning, hot showers and if you are lucky, a view of otters swimming past.
www.aseascape.com, Ashvem, Mandrem, 9923587713, Instagram.
This gorgeous 10 bedroom villa in Saligao, exclusively managed by The Villa Escape, is renovated and restored by architect Ayaz Basrai (The Busride Studio). The perfect meeting place for old-world Goan charm and modern luxury, The First House offers high ceilings and plenty of natural light, poker and snooker tables, as well as two swimming pools with clear views of the paddy fields. Meanwhile, a gazebo and sun loungers, wrap-around porches and lawns make themselves available for barbecues, cocktails and tea. There is also uninterrupted Wi-fi and a large screen television for those who can’t shake off their big-city addictions. Our favourite feature: a hydroponic garden that provides the bounty for farm-to-fork dinners; in-villa yoga and massages can be booked as well. P.S: Yes, the Second House restaurant is right next door to The First House.
thefirsthousegoa.com, Muddavaddi, Saligao, 9820027727 / [email protected], Instagram.
This astonishingly beautiful private mansion isn’t listed on any booking portal, which means you have to get past owner Ozzy Serrao on Whatsapp or Instagram to be considered worthy. Once you’re in, you will discover 12,000 sq ft of pure luxury in the heart of Anjuna, equipped with 2 chefs, 2 massage therapists, and a dedicated staff of 15. The temperature controlled infinity pool overlooks Anjuna’s emerald green paddy fields, the six suites are expansive and decorated with Art Deco and Mid Century furniture sourced from auction houses, including a museum grade piano, a 100-year old iron bathtub in the Penthouse Suite for al fresco bathing, and a light fixture that survived the terror attack on the Taj Hotel, Mumbai. We also love Orchard Manor’s concierge (run by Ozzy himself) that can bag reservations at top restaurants, create bespoke itineraries and organise experiences like single malt tastings and sound healing sessions at the mansion. Om sweet om.
Anjuna Mapusa Road, Gaunvaddi, Anjuna, 9819046730, Instagram, the entire private mansion needs to be booked.
The new-ish JW Marriott Goa in North Goa feels more caring and less corporate, a non-towering building with warm wooden accents, water bodies and lush foliage. It’s got all the efficiency of a five-star, and all the considerate deets of a boutique hotel. First, gush over the hotel’s location and then rush over to their sexy, slick spa that finally offers Goa vacationers and residents a non-Snip massage option. On weekends, go from spa-serene to sonic-sunsets at Agua Bar & Cafe at the brim of a beach-facing infinity pool. End at their new Nikkei (Japanese + Peruvian) restaurant Heliconia, helmed by Peruvian chef, Arturo Castro Salazar.
Vagator Beach, Bardez, call 8326749800, Instagram.
Husband-wife duo Manoj and Kavita were hardcore corporates before they turned to a slow, sustainable Goa life and now they’d like to share this gift with you. Stay in this present, and you will find yourself at their Anjuna estate which is a lovely, eco-conscious B&B that offers a cottage on the paddy fields, an infinity pool, al fresco dining, bird watching and home-cooked breakfast. Until we found out about the B&B’s new MesseKe.Pottery.Studio for guests, our favourite thing about it was how isolated it feels yet how connected it really is (a stone’s throw away from the Bomras-CreamChoc junction).
Parijaat, Mazal Waddo, Anjuna, near Cream Choc gelato shop, 9820044249, Instagram here & here.
Their collection of luxe villas is small but stunning. Which is probably why unlike many other villa aggregators in Goa, The Rose Nomad’s selection feels extremely well considered. Our favourite in the list is their Frangipani House in Siolim. The Rose Nomad’s French founder Pio Coffrant has provided design services to boutique hotels across India including Delhi’s charming Bungalow 99, and co-manager Smriti Goyal used to co-own La Bodega in the capital.
www.therosenomad.com, 537, Baunta Vaddo, Bouta Waddo, Assagao, 9819971881, Instagram.
This Anjuna hotel, member’s club and co-working space is all polished porcelains and gleaming marble surfaces, a swanky modern space to swim, stay and socialise. You will be sweet on their suites with private jacuzzis and Juliet balconies, as well as their posh rooms, but most of all, you’ll love the aquamarine pool with partially submerged marshmallow-hued deck chairs. Dining rooms, private salons and secret suppers pop up in East gardens and summer rooms at this 19th century home.
mansionhaus.com, 1263, Gaunvaddi, Anjuna, 7887886802, Instagram.
Next gen entrepreneurs from the Sawantwadi royal family have converted part of the palace into a tasteful boutique hotel. Husband-wife duo Lakham (pastry chef) and Shraddha Bhonsle (culinary chef) are Culinary Institute of America-trained chefs so you know the restaurant on the palace grounds will be exciting. Specials: palatial rooms embellished with local Ganjifa art and lacquerware; old-world charm everywhere you look; a pool dotted with long limbed palm trees; bump-ins with royals; local Malvani cuisine; and resident golden retriever, Sushi. This palace hotel is beautiful all year round, particularly gorgeous when it’s reigning. PS: It’s just an hour away from North Goa.
sawantwadipalace.com, NH17, Sindhudurg, Khaskilwada, Sawantwadi, 7498488318, Instagram.
Other stay options: Ahilya by the Sea; Cabo Serai; Anamiva; The Postcard Hotels, Vaayu Kula; Casa Galgibaga.
Season(ed) Goa restaurateurs Aliya and Imran are making all our wishes come true at Villa Nova this season. For starters, they've added a stunning beef carpaccio salad and the Tomba pizza to the menu (old favourites like the lemon linguine pancetta and beef ragu persist), and they’ve expanded their space offerings to house Studio Verandah’s new flagship store which means you can buy a hot bikini in between chilled prosecco cocktails. While you order a woodfired pizza and scarf down a Chicken Caesar sandwich, know that their brand new Nova Sandwich Shop will be opening in Anjuna soon. More flour power to them!
House No. 286, Dias Waddo, Arpora-Nagoa, 9168862111, Instagram.
At least one Ashwem swim day should end at Verandah, where an enchanted Eden houses all the gin you can drink and grassy paths lead to a coveted top table with front row seats to the sweetest gigs. Order coils of Spaghetti alla Nerano, heaps of fresh salad and pizza.
Calist House, Ashwem-Mandrem Road, Mandrem, 9503105092, Instagram.
Our favourite thing to do at this Arpora village bistro is to visit on Wine Wednesdays, indulge in a wine flight (plus discounted rates at the stand-alone vino bar) while tapping our feet to Konkani & Portuguese music. On other days of the week, this two-storey restaurant offers other things: 360 degree views of lush fields, cozy taverna vibes, live music, weekend brunch, Voodstock Fridays bar nights with live rock tunes and more. bpb orders: Peri Peri Prawns, Beef Steak, Spaghetti with Meatballs, Pan Fried Pork Shoulder, Beef & Onions.
The Village Bistro. Orchard Villas, Porba Vaddo, Calangute - Mapusa Road, Arpora, 7219488898, Instagram, pet friendly.
The South Goa commercial mall that The Den resides in has little to do with what it stands for. Because inside, this speakeasy and cigar lounge is all slick and seductive, with an enviable bar program. Owner Eric Caeiro recommends that you feast on the tequila-marinated Beef Tenderloin Asado with Argentinian Chimichurri, after you’ve paired the Den Hummus and fried calamari with a slew of drinks including the Stout Mate, 619 and G-wagon. PS: Saturdays are for Urban R.O.A.R DJ nights and 4 am closing bells; reservations required.
Sitara Atrium, 4th floor Colmorod Navelim, Margao, 7709436339, Instagram.
Sacha of Sacha’s shop, and her partner run this dosa diner where you can get an excellent mackerel vadais, as well Cazulo-jambul coolers spiked with whatever makes you happy. PS: always ask for extra helpings of their roasted peanut chutney.
House no 261, Socolvaddo, Assagao, 7499922517, Instagram.
Perhaps it’s a Bombay thing, but we prefer to skip the slow many-courses meal and go instead for Suzie’s stellar cocktails (St. Lawrence) + quick orders from the starters menu (Pork Chao Shou). Its pretty, twinkling space populated with plants and peace is great for date night.
House no. 531, near Chari Garage, Bouta Waddo, Assagao, 7498856389, Instagram.
Behind a bookshelf and under a sandwich shop, crouches a crimson coloured speakeasy with crafty cocktails. While its antique phones and gilded picture frames - even the code to enter, for that matter - might feel a bit five years ago a la PCO, but this is still a super fun late night plan, especially on balmy summer nights when very few other Goa bars have air conditioning.
Plot 1240, Anjuna, walk through Big Fat Sandwich and go down to the basement from the bookshelf.
Goa resident Neil D’souza hoped to re-define the Anjuna shack when he dreamed up Slow Tide and teamed up with award winning Sri Lankan architect Palinda Kannangara, to create a space that’s a nod to the neighbourhood’s OG hippie culture. Perched at the lip of Anjuna beach, Slow Tide’s stunning expanse is divided into a dreamy long bar; beachfront frolick seats; a sand pit like-area to stroll through barefoot in between courses; and a sparkling indoor dining room. At the bar, order cocktails that are modern odes to the alcohol culture of Goa (get high on Acid Erik). The kitchen sends out sophisticated dishes from Indian communities influenced by the Portuguese, including Thalipeeth, Chorizo Hot Dogs and our favourite Spiced Pineapple Curry.
slowtidegoa.com, Dmello Vaddo, Anjuna, 8055255266, Instagram.
A 132 year-old hardware store in Siolim has been carefully converted into a vintage yakitori house by restoration experts and architects Studio Praia. Yakitori, sushi platters and precious sake cocktails served in an intimate, moody space makes this a great option for date night.
JQJ7+FW7, Siolim, 8530777367, Instagram.
The darlings from The Daily in Mumbai have worked with architect Ayaz Basrai and ex O Pedro chef Jyoti Singh to build out your new second house in Goa, so visit often. This visual art, restaurant and bar space set in an extraordinary old home strives to be as much about Goa’s future as it is about its past. Trust us and get the flavour-bomb Salmon Toast topped with egg yolk jam.
The Second House, next to The First House, Muddavaddi, Saligao, 8530266603, Instagram.
Lunch and lounge on the porch of an old village home where the freshest mackerel (order a day in advance) is hay-smoked in front of you to present what could well be the most elegantly flavoured fish you’ll eat in Goa. The plastic-chair-and-table set up is super basic, the food, brilliant. Their fried chonak and prawn curry are great too.
House no 954/7, Pequem, Peddem, Monteiro Vaddo, Anjuna, 9822583319, Instagram.
New from the Padaria Prazeres people, this new Panjim diner serves “fuss-free” European food cooked in an open kitchen. Go for the lemon-brown butter gnocchi and order repeats of the pina coladas garnished with baby’s breath.
Off Rua de Ourém, behind Hotel Sona Building, Altinho, Goa, Panaji, 8459801154, Instagram.
27-year-old Ninoshka D’Souza took over her grandfather’s bar that was shuttered for 26 years, to restart Peter Tavern. Post 9 pm, regulars pour into this family-run tavern for feni and salt-pepper beef; Ninoshka recommends you try her favourites - choriz french fries and golden fried butter garlic squid. She is also open to renting out the entire tavern in the afternoon if you’d like to host a private susegado style lunch. Don’t forget to invite us!
Paliem Shemeachem Bhatt, Ucassaim, 7507587060, Instagram, 7 pm to 11pm, closed on Mondays.
You’ll go for the Portuguese pastel de natas, you’ll stay for the Sour Cherry Financiers. Also order their punchy stout beer cheese toast and incredible new chicken and egg muffin. At the end of the year, always save room for the strawberry and cream bun.
Celeste Plaza, ground floor, opposite Models Celebrity, Caranzalem, Panaji, 9322806130, Instagram.
This bar may have title-transitioned from Escobar to Pablo's, but its chilled vibe remains. One of our favourite Goa spots to get a drink, this "friendly neighbourhood bar" writes its cocktail menu on the tiled wall of the self service bar, and also has interesting beer on tap. Stop by for infused feni and a local tavern-like atmosphere.
Junction, Badem Road, Badem, Assagao, Vagator, 9890345291, Instagram.
Oppas presents itself in a food truck avatar at Anjuna, as well as a Chapora restaurant across from Holy Cross Chapel. Both dole out the best beef roast poies. Can I get an amen?
Anjuna, outside Oxford Supermarket; Chappora, Instagram.
Little luchi bites, tarts and Kolkata-inspired Kathi rolls served with cocktails in a garden? Yes please! There’s always a bumper crop to harvest at Mustard, an Assagao restaurant that favours both, French and Bengali cuisines. Bhalo bien! While the kitchen fulfills its ‘cafe’ duties by serving crepes, burgers and sandwiches, it doesn’t forget to serve you the dishes that made you love Mustard in the first place: Alu-Jhingey Poshto, Fish Paturi, Grilled Fish with Mustard Hollandaise and more. Tips: ask after their Make Your Own Thalis, private catering, weekend live music, seasonal dining pop-ups and monthly Formidable Flavours event; and don't leave without buying in-house breads, chutneys and sauces.
cafe.mustardrestaurants.in, Astoria Hotel, Anjuna-Mapusa Road, Assagao, Bardez, 7770010915/8322268034, Instagram, pet friendly.
A Nao Spirits (Greater Than, Hapusa) office by day, cocktail bar by night, this new spot knows that work can be rough which is why they’ve divided the beverage menu by Long Days, Tough Days and Half Days. Order a quick bite from the Snacks Break list and sip on an EOD or Out of Office cocktail to watch your stress melt away.
Ground floor, Mayfair Hotel, Dr Dada Vaidya Road, near Mahalaxmi Temple, Altinho, Panaji, Instagram.
Motley Brew pours freely at The Aguad, an old Portuguese prison complex (dating back to 1612) lined with palm trees on the edge of the Arabian Sea. The Motley crew at Motley Brew serves coffees, teas & tisanes personally sourced by expert sommeliers from India’s finest plantations & estates. Their offerings are of rare provenance, shade grown, bird & bee friendly, ethically sourced, sustainable, fair trade and promise a 21 day turnaround from bush to mug. Someone award them a cup already! They also serve beer and cocktails infused with tea and coffee which makes this a lovely spot for sundowners. Teetotallers at high tea, settle into their Tasting Room to experience manual coffee brewing percolations, cold brews and Nitro coffees paired with savoury and patisserie treats, many of which are crafted from their beans and teas.
Aguada Port & Jail Complex, Sinquerim, 9226916106, Instagram, shop online at, motleybrew.in.
In many ways, Miguel’s kickstarted the posh culinary scene at Panjim’s Fontainhas, paving the way for experimental new restaurants and getting North Goa groups to pencil a Panjim day into their schedules. Showman chef and leader Madhav Dayal is ambitious and it shows in the kitchen’s constant innovations (hello, Jackson Pollock steak) and the bar that sends out excellents cocktails (Old fashioneds with coconut sugar) and petiscos.
H No 111 Bento Miguel, Old Patto Bridge, Panaji, 9112222584, Instagram.
This Middle Eastern restaurant is the perfect pit stop during your determined Sangolda shopping day, offering cold mezze platters and chilled cocktails. Remember to order the hot Turkish wings in addition to the usual hummus-pita routine, and for the finalé, homemade ice cream and Persian cream puffs.
House no 134, Mae de Deus Vaddo, Chogm Road, Sangolda, Instagram.
It’s already been a few months since Marāi brought its “slow-living courtyard” into our lives, but even now, a special opening-day buzz persists. This whole is made up of many magnetic parts: an ingredient driven restaurant, a baller bakery and delicatessen, a lifestyle store and slow brew coffee bar. At the centre of it all sit a set of mother-daughter founders: creative entrepreneur and restaurateur Malini Akerkar who conceptualised and designed Marāi, as well as Amalia Akerkar who is armed with a degree in The Art of International Bread Baking and Professional Culinary Arts from the International Culinary Center (New York). We’re pleased to sit in Marāi’s leafy, sunny pockets and peruse its new brunch / lunch menu that among other things, serves a wicked brioche French toast with chantilly and strawberries, sweet and savory crepes, beef tataki, pasta al limone, koji aged tenderloin and a smashing line-up of cocktails.
Vegas Vaddo Road, Arpora, 9920201231, Instagram.
An incredible new location in Panjim! CIA graduates bring us insanely good fried chicken and confit garlic grilled cheese, braided cinnamon donuts and chocolate chip cookies that are bigger than your face. PS: they bake the most decadent celebration cakes, including a towering made-to-order croquembouche. Happy birthday to us!
HO, 1/61, Vivenda Aleluia, Rua São Tomé, behind GPO, Panaji, 9359815109, Instagram.
While hipsters hem and haw about Joseph becoming "too commercial", we still can't resist the lure of this atmospheric feni bar. Always the first stop in our Fontainhas-fun bar hop! Chat with manager Gundu while he serves up Tambde Rosa cocktails and cool stories.
Gomes Pereira Road, Altinho, 8788432184, Instagram.
On your Mapusa market run, stop by this old school Goan bakery for the best Batica cake, made with coconut and semolina.
Khorlim, Mapusa, Goa, 8322262651.
Best post swim black dal and chilli naans! Bookend this meal with smoked mutton curry and fried Jaipuri bhindi for side crunch as well as signature jamun kulfi popsicles for purple tongues. Bonus: this regional Indian restaurant is set up in a cute Assagao home for non-restaurant restaurant vibes.
190, Mazal Vado, Assagao, 7823899945, Instagram.
With the best Goan bands playing live here on most evenings, you can definitely expect your Jambalaya dinner to come with a side of spontaneous jiving. If you are looking for a Goan restaurant owned by a Goan family and not by a Delhi chain, stop by Jambalaya in Candolim for cool old-school Goa vibes including a multi-cuisine menu (try the Chicken Cotoletta, Stuffed Crabs and Bloody Marys) and an incredibly friendly team who is brimming over with cocktail recommendations. 2024 updates include a tropical theme and a woodfired pizza oven that they are particularly proud of.
Aguada - Siolim Road, Murrod Waddo, opposite Newtons Supermarket, Candolim, 7276003712, Instagram.
Blooming in Botanique’s backyard is Bombay’s Izumi, a place where you can eat your unagi and sip your sake, swimming poolside. Get the Hanataba Vegetable Tempura, Negi Chutoro with Crispy Inari and Avocado, Katsu Sandos and the new Tamago with Mentaiko mayo. We’re egging you on.
45, Mapusa-Anjuna - Chapora Road, Assagao, 9923645569, Instagram.
Isabella’s is Goan IT professional Arati Naik’s homage to the many bodegas and tavernas she visited in Spain and Portugal. Settle in, order a constellation of tapas - Gambas Al Ajilo, Huevos Rotos, Goat Cheese and Lentils on Toast, Grilled Aubergine stuffed with homemade cheese, Patatas Bravas and freshly fried Churros - and wash it all down with housemade sodas, in-house fig & apricot liqueurs, homemade limoncello and vermouth, and outstanding cocktails. Sign up for their vermouth making and pairing masterclasses; or show up for their quiz and Latin music nights for added fun. PS: the kitchen sources Manchego cheese, chorizo, smoked paprika from Spain & Arati’s personal favorite, Bacalhau (dried cod fish) from Portugal. Cod, that sounds good!
1st floor, Edcon Incrocio, MG Road, Panjim, 8805818805/9307662075, Instagram.
We dare you to resist the charms of HOSA, a restaurant that has all of this (and more) in its arsenal: a glorious 122 year old home, a giddy bar and a Guntur Crab Fry to die for. The makers of Indian Accent and Comorin nurtured HOSA, which just turned one, and continues to celebrate the culinary diversity of South India with a brand-new menu and an exhibition of photographs by renowned photographer Rohit Chawla, titled 'The Inspired Frame'. Chef Suresh DC has created a collection of mico-regional dishes including Ginger Tamarind Pork Ribs, Alleppey Seafood HotPot; Nellai Chicken Curry and Iyengar Honey Cake.
www.hosarestaurant.com, Irada Home, Near St. Anthony’s Church, Siolim, Bardez, 8326747212/7498627977, Instagram.
They made it to Asia’s 50 Best Bars list this year! A garden bar for outdoor drinking and live music gigs, this is a great option for your Anjuna bar hopping night. Get a big bowl of nachos with pork chorizo and butter garlic calamari, with repeat rounds of margaritas and palomas.
Cross Anjuna, house no. 622, Chapora, Vagator, 9049097014, Instagram.
Rays your Fineapple juice glass to Hello Sunshine, Anjuna’s friendly neighbourhood cafe that rises at 8 am everyday (shut on Wednesdays). Co-owners Atiya Rakyan (formerly at Raw Pressery) and Aliya Rashid bring their trademark optimism to the vibe here, which focuses on happiness and health. The kitchen offers up all-day breakfast and brunch - think energy bowls, plant based meat tacos, a new selection of eggs (get the Habibi), gluten-free and sugar free brownies and their hot-seller ginger lemon turmeric drink. The cherry on top: Hello Sunshine is the only Goa cafe to serve Marc's coffee from Auroville. Go for pre or post yoga / work out fuel and for the best hangover brekkie.
Verandah Hotel, Igraj Waddo, Anjuna, 7887998957, Instagram.
Cream cheese garlic buns and raspberry almond tarts on speed dial. You can stop by this bread-box sized Assagao bakery or order in; chef-owner Namrata Pai’s dark chocolate-sea salt cookies are a guaranteed cure to the Monday blues. New on the menu: tiramisu tubs, baked yogurt and granola parfait, fresh pineapple brown butter almond cake.
510/4 Bounta Vaddo, Assagao, 8322959952, Instagram.
A dip in the ocean followed by paella and mango margaritas in a hacienda-like set up sounds like a day well spent. Bienvenido to Guapa, a new Morjim restaurant where classic Spanish dishes and drinks are made with super fresh local Goan ingredients and a Guapa twist. Some must try dishes include the Goan Chrozio Croquettas, Mushroom & Parmesan Churros, and a tomato-chilli take on Gambas al Ajillo. Eclectic live music acts will score your time at the bar as you order batches of fruit margs and Guapa Sours, and end with Torrija, a traditional Spanish dessert, typically made with brioche bread, but made instead with local pao. Born and bread in Goa!
749, New Wada, Morjim, North Goa, 9769969257, Instagram.
Among the many legs in the furniture-favoured neighbourhood of Sangolda - hello, Saudades, Freedom Tree, Paper Boat - lie hands that mix the tastiest cocktails and stir delicious Asian sharing plates at Grumps, a brand new neighborhood bar. Our favourite Grumps routine is to get a seat at the bar, share plates of grilled beef tongue and bacon fried rice, and get multiple rounds of Smack That, a magical clear cocktail made with cashew, maraschino, frangipani and snack pepper brine. PS: look for cute co-owner Kartik, who in the past has worked with Izumi Goa and The Bombay Canteen-O Pedro group.
58/B, Grumps Street, Sangolda, 9226396226, Instagram.
Home of the Anjuna hipsters, Grind Bar is the coffee place where you and your beanie need to be scene-y. Order their Coffee Lemonade + PB&J on sourdough, while you ask after their weekend bar takeovers and listening room.
1 & 2, 1269/3 Casa Esmeralda Gaum Wadi, Anjuna Mapusa Road, Bardez, 8799920954, Instagram.
A bar that’s dedicated to everything your hipster heart desires - vinyls and well-made cocktails using their very own distilled feni and decoctions. Often the last stop on our Panjim bar crawl, for pizza and feni cocktails. And rise up for their sourdough workshops.
Jukebox, house no 49, next to Audiophile Goa, Fontainhas, Mala, Panaji, 7507472587, Instagram.
Named after Thailand’s national bird, the Siamese Fireback, this hot new restaurant from the Indian Accent flock gives us much to tweet about. First and foremost, it makes good on two promises - lovely views and legendary curries. Sit before the grand St Anthony’s Church and order from a menu put together by multi-award winning chef David Thompson and the Fireback team, who focus on “authentic, unfussy” dishes. The Josper grill is the star of the show here while the kitchen sends out a range of fluffy omlettes, small plates, salads, skewers and curries. bpb recommends: the pomelo-ginger-coconut-betel-leaf salad; soft shell crab red curry; skewered turmeric prawns and stir-fried beans. You can choose to sit indoors in a glass house style set up, or walk out onto a river-side deck where a seductive bar serves a host of craft cocktails, including whisky with galangal brine, gin with Thai basil and custard apple, and rum with rice and mango.
Firebackrestaurant.com, Irada Home, House No. 60/1 A1, near St. Anthony's Church, Siolim, Bardez, 9209717970, Instagram.
Sip deliciously potent cocktails on a paddy field, while you play spot the peacocks during the monsoon, which promises to be this show’s best season yet. Follow this pachyderm’s programing on Instagram to discover and attend intimate live gigs and smashing DJ sets. On more sedate nights, partner-owner Moustapha offers a where-everybody-knows-your-name vibe.
House no. 1049/2, Survey no. 16/1 Grand Pedder Field, Peddem, Anjuna, 7666361130, Instagram.
Previously a pop-up at the Kochi Biennale, this Anjuna restaurant in an old Portuguese home, does not use terms like ‘ingredient driven’ and ‘zero waste’ to tick all the marketing boxes. A ton of research and careful ingredient sourcing makes every meal here super interesting, the whole experience directed by food geek, sustainable warrior and chef Anumitra, who is also armed with a PhD in cognitive linguistics and extensive work-ex in kitchens around the world. Get a batch of Blue Moon cocktails (made from butterfly pea flowers) to support aromatic rice and fish dishes.
1301, Anjuna Mapusa Road, Kumbhar Vaddo, Anjuna, 8308830750, Instagram.
The only Goa scoop you’ll ever need! While they home deliver limited flavours, it's best to visit this church-view dessert parlour for rotating new ones - we once tried a candied ginger-yogurt ice cream that we can’t stop thinking about. A Sicilian Pistachio- Dark Chocolate half-and-half scoop is our regular go-to.
Near Our Lady Of Health Chapel Complex, Mazal Waddo, Anjuna, 8766735358, Instagram.
What started as a lockdown business for husband-wife duo Karan & Aishwarya selling Kerala pickles in Goa, is now a lovely little Malayali restaurant in Panjim with checkered floors and a view of the Rua De Ourem creek. Get the podi started here with playful cocktails, mop up Malabar curries with parottas and appams, keep room for Thalassery biryani, and don't forget to buy Ammama-approved pickles on your way out.
www.mychakos.com, 1st Floor, Avanti, Rua De Ourem, Opposite Patto Bridge, Panjim, 9322161846, Instagram.
Appearing consistently on India's best restaurant lists and rating charts, Cavatina is the reason to travel to South Goa. Headed by star chef Avinash Martins, this modern Indian restaurant re-imagines Goan food while you take in a stunning sunset in Benaulim. Chef Martins works with the best farmers and local producers which means the ingredients are super fresh, and the menus, seasonal. bpb loves: Sannas and Toddy Tapper; clams just fished out of the river Sal and cooked with almond ajo blanco sauce, local seaweed and kaffir lime oil; and a Portuguese Serradura made as a torte.
Taj Hotel Road, near Joecons Beach Resort, Benaulim, South Goa, 7276413482, Instagram.
The fabulousness of the Fontainhas continues with the addition of Casanoni Trattoria, a delicious dedication to the cooking of Italian grandmothers. The two-storey restaurant focuses on “honest flavours” that stretch from the Riviera to the Italian Alps; try the Frito Misto, Neapolitan pizza, Bucatini, pappardelle duck ragout and panna cotta. While the olive oil, balsamic vinegar and cheese including Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino Romano are flown in from Italy, the seafood, meat and veggies are locally sourced and vermouth is hand crafted in-house at Casanoni Trattoria. Cincin to that!
House no 4207, Rua De Querem, Cortim, Fontainhas, Panaji, 7837834207, Instagram.
From a lovely Panjim cafe in 2015, Caravela has since expanded to include slick Margao and Candolim outposts as well as a top-notch single-estate coffee brand called Latin Quarter which you can shop online. This Goan family-run chain of cafes focuses on all-day breakfast foods. While they do a full continental menu (pancakes, burgers, eggs, hash browns, cold cuts, and croissants), we also love their selection of old-school Goan snacks like Rissois, Ros Omelette, Croquettes, and Samosas, which pair well with crowd-favorites, cappuccino and cold coffee, as well as breads and pastries made in their in-house bakery.
caravelacafe.com, latinquarter.in, 9511632979, Instagram.
Allow us to bean you up to Caliber Cafe, the best place to grab coffee and cake when you are in South Goa. They serve specialty coffees by Bombay’s KC Roasters, gorgeous complex dessert, in-house breads, plus a selection of food that includes burgers, brunchy eggs and pan-seared chicken. The sweets we’re crazy about: Torta Caprese, Bombolinis, petit gateaux like Berry Noir and Hazelnut Praline, warm chocolate-sea salt pretzels and a cult favourite boozy tiramisu.
Building A, Akar Excelsior, Shop No. 8/9 Colva-Benaulim Road, Grande Vanelim, Benaulim, South Goa, 8446048198, Instagram.
Remember when you used to visit Goa and its small string of restaurants were named after the seafood you loved to eat? Swim back to those days and visit the iconic Calamari restaurant + shack at Dando Beach. Boxed in by bougainvillea, the tables here are planted inside and out on the sand, which makes it just the place to kick off your shoes while you drink an ice cold beer and eat a delicious plate of…calamari. Started in 2003 by Verner Da Costa Frias and the late Reginaldo D'Souza, Calamari promises the freshest seafood, Goan specialities and comfort dishes including a smashing beef-stuffed jacket potato. Not to be missed are their endless list of cocktails that pair well with the sunset. PS: live music every day from 1:30 pm to 4:30 pm and 7 pm to 10 pm.
calamari-bathe-binge.business.site, Dando Beach Beachside, in front of Santana Beach Resort, Candolim, 7350075105, Instagram.
Ditch the over-Instagrammed feni field experience for this fantastic farm feast instead. Perched in the hills of the South, this is quite possibly the freshest meal you will eat in Goa. Celebrity chef Avinash Martins is the chief bounty hunter here at this by-reservation-only spot (book 48 hours prior, minimum 6 people), serving beautifully plated modern interpretations of local dishes like crab xec xec, Kalchi kodi, fish head caldo and a mezze platter that tastes of Goa. Like the kitchen, the bar here is also in hot pursuit of fresh, local inspiration.
Velim Salcette, South Goa, 8805258277, Instagram.
Two cute, sharp Bombay boys, Nick (ex Slink & Bardot) and Jeremie (ex Cafe Zoe) have partnered with Bomras and are now managing the show at an already excellent restaurant that’s always on our Goa list. It’s easy to skip over their tomato salad, but don’t. It is bright and bristling with toasted peanuts and fried onions + garlic. Combine this with a meal of black scotch eggs, crispy pork salad, egg fried rice and chilli chicken each time you visit to learn that chef Bomra’s kitchen is a lesson in quiet consistency - - a reminder that reliability can be sexy too.
1152, opp. Our Lady Of Health Chapel, Mazal Waddo, Anjuna, 9767591056, Instagram.
Committed Goa thali hunter and bpb Goa contributor Insia Lacewalla loves Bombil; get the amazing vegetarian thali, she says, with a ton of seafood-of-the-day offerings on the side. For a more local vibe, hit Satpurush and follow it up with a nap at Morjim beach, which is a seashell’s throw away.
Bombil, opp Military Hospital, Campal Brg, Panaji; Satpurush, New Wada, Morjim.
This “family restaurant & bar” is the best place to sit down for a Goan Portuguese feast. From Crab Xacuti and sannas to rava fried fish and beef cutlets, this one features on the top 10 Goa lists of several chefs and restaurateurs.
Bhatti Waddo, Nerul, 9822184103, Instagram.
Gin for breakfast? Yes please! Brekkie-famous Beno serves over 80 gins from across the world, paired with stuffed pois - hello, slow cooked pork-slaw poi - as well as a long list of a.m options, including all types of eggs, fluffy omelets and fluffier pancakes, croissant sandwiches, smoothie bowls, breakfast platters and more. This SoGo (South Goa) cafe has the chops - the largest collection of gin in the country and smashing Turkish eggs - to seduce even the most stubborn North Goa tourist to drive over on the weekend and make a day of it. Beno tip: Combine with a post-gin-sip-dip at the nearby Trinity Beach.
1239, Mazilwaddo, Benaulim, South Goa, 8468940150, Instagram.
This new beach bar opens at magic hour, which means you can sip your first cocktail bathed in golden light. A rum and tequila-forward bar mixes zero waste cocktails while you run off into the sunset for a swim, and return to sip on these along with a string of super fun Mexican and “Mexi Goan” dishes. Baja is a trip everyday but on some days it’s extra special: Sundays are for Sundowner BBQs, Saturdays are for international music acts and it’s Movie Under the Stars on Wednesdays. How’s that for a reel?
Trinity Beach, Benaulim, South Goa, Instagram, opens at 4 pm.
You'll learn to ignore the plastic chairs at this Goan restaurant once you get started on their seriously stunning pork sorpotel and ribs. If you are seeking refuge from the Bali-fication of Goa’s restaurant space, a proper Goan meal at this fuss-free village eatery will set you straight.
Mapusa Aldona Road, Nachinola, 9421194482.
Sheltered inside the Anamiva boutique hotel (also a stay recommendation), this new vinyl and craft cocktail bar in Anjuna is super proud of its hand-built Analog Audiophile System and turntables, setting the stage for music that spans from jazz to rock. Try a tiki cocktail or a beetroot shrub milk washed-tequila potion by the pool.
Survey No. 509, House No. 1259/2 & 1259/3, 1A, Gaonwadi, behind Anamiva Hotel, Anjuna, 8237392976, Instagram.
It’s easy to mistake this beach bar's cocktail menu for a garden harvest one, where pastel coloured flowers bloom in fragrant cocktails and Ashwem’s hippest hippies gather for post swim aperitivo. Our recommendation: get a batch of their prosecco-based Super Mimosas and climb up to the mezzanine for stunning sunset views with your sips. Closed for the season so check back post monsoon.
Ashwem Beach, near Change Your Mind, Ashwem, Instagram.
Bring out the Mom Perignon for आई, a true celebration of Saraswat food in Goa. Founder-chef Shubhra Shankhwalker is a benefactor of recipes passed down from her mum and mother-in-law and she is generous enough to share her inheritance with us, via a home delivery service and sit-down meals at her home. Here’s what our आई feast looked like: Backwater Prawn and Hog Plum Curry; Tendli and Raw Cashew; Tambdi Bhaji, Green-Chutney Stuffed Rawa Fried Mackerel (morning catch); Red Rice & Solkadi.
Call / Whatsapp Shubhra for menu + order at 9890238080; Instagram.
This is Moira’s most beloved tavern, where star-shaped lanterns shine their light on garden and porch seating in a lovely old mustard coloured home. Their tongue chilly, and serradura topped with Baileys are top notch, as is their hero grapefruit cocktail BelGinDa named for their founder Belinda. Call ahead and try to make it for karaoke night on Saturdays.
Raint Vaddo, near Moira Main Church, Moira, 8779335890, Instagram.
Walk across Arambol beach, over the rocks and through the foliage to the coconut grove where you will spy and sigh at the Vagkolam sweet water lake and multani mitti spring. Pack a wine picnic. Leave your heart behind but not your litter.
Arambol Beach, North Goa.
The Flying Goat cafe and bookstore in Anjuna transforms into an open air theatre on most Sunday nights. The films are curated by Lost The Plot, an indie film licensing agency - expect a line-up of interesting and often rare movies. Find yourself a cozy spot (they fill up soon!) under a sky of dimly lit naked bulbs, surrounded by trees at this outdoor movie watching experience. No garden variety cinema, this.
Anjuna, call 9820772399, check their Instagram for line-up and schedule, shut on Wednesdays.
If you’d rather have your secret watering hole trips planned, Urbanaut offers these + other lovely Goa experiences from feni tastings to long lunches in the field. New on their experience list is a three hour Konkan Explorers yacht trip on the Chapora river where you can jump off the boat and on to kayaks, standing paddle boards or straight into the water for a swim. Beer and snacks included.
Learn to make and paint your own ceramic tiles or azulejos, an art imported here by the Portuguese. The Azulejos de Goa gallery, located in a 250-year-old Indo-Portuguese home in Panjim, sells and customises tiles and crockery, but founder Orlando also conducts tile making workshops for wall to wall fun. One-on-one and group classes, by appointment only.
azulejosdegoa.com, opp Captain of Ports, Panjim, call 8322431900/9822976867.
The Storiculture Company in Aldona empowers voices and storytellers from across South Asia, and conducts super interesting and legitimate immersive experiences, residencies, workshops and events, many of which are taught and presided over by global, award-winning creators.
Read more at www.thestoriculturecompany.com, headquartered in Aldona.
This culinary school believes that plant based food is the future, and runs 9 week culinary programs to nudge you in that direction. Courses include Culinary Wellness, Fermentation, Gluten-Free and Oil-Free Cooking, Noodles and Pasta, Raw Gastronomy, Entertaining at Home and more. The school’s co-founder Nisha Garg, who has previously worked at Bomras and Stockholm plant based restaurant Växthuset teaches here as well.
www.theveganschool.org, 9903761884, Instagram.
Bombay-based PR maverick Schubert Fernandes and musician Omar De Loiola Pereira have joined forces to bring back traditional sounds of Goa. They do this by creating an intimate setting to showcase local folk music, which they are very clear does NOT include the Goan bands you hear at restaurant brunches. They arrange concerts staged in spectacular heritage homes paired with “forgotten” culinary delicacies prepared by home chefs under the guidance of Chef Oliver of The Goan Kitchen. Fado music with a side of rissois, anyone?
Call 9819792973 / [email protected], to attend a performance DM them on Instagram.
An hour’s drive from Goa in the seaside village of Sawantwadi, is where Dr. Bosco Henriques has set up his lovely organic BioDye factory. With the use of over 100 plants, they dye natural fabrics using only non-toxic and biodegradable inputs for slow fashion labels the world over, including Bodice, Brigitte Singh, Woolmark. If you are truly interested and ask nicely, Dr Henriques will be happy to show you around the facility and maybe even let you learn to dye with dignity.
1101 Bebiwadi, Madkhol, Sawantwadi, www.biodye.in, Instagram.
Bookmark this for the monsoon! Jungle compatriots Parag Rangnekar and Omkar Dharwadkar run nerdy seasonal walks under Mrugaya Xpeditions, and we’re here to recommend their trippy monsoon one. Bioluminescent mushrooms, mercurial hump-nosed pit vipers, bug-eyed bush frogs, and other creatures await during a night-time walk in the non-protected areas around Netravali and Bhagwan Mahaveer Wildlife Sanctuaries. Fair warning: your silk PJs won’t survive this night.
Call 9822129811
bpb Goa is a fee related property
With additions from Insia Lacewalla, founder of India With Insia.
Don't forget to dip into our archive of super useful bpb Long Lists for recommendations on the hottest gifts to give, the best home improvements to make, the hottest snaxx for your hunger and tried-and-rested beauty buys.