We set out to keep up with brand new Goa openings without forgetting about your favourites. Here’s a gathering of old loves and new pursuits: restaurants, bars, bakeries, B&Bs & hotels in North & South Goa. Download before your trip & share as a PDF here.
Of course, close proximity to the fabulous Fatrade beach is the highlight at this new South Goa seaside boutique hotel, but the fact that chef extraordinaire Ritu Dalmia runs their restaurant; Countertop’s Pankaj Balachandran leads the The Lab cocktail bar; and UK spa HVN jumps in to run their Japanese forest bathing rituals and Hydro Bed, instantly makes this a fun stay option with lots to do on the property. Finally, a Goa hotel that sees the power of creative collaborations.
www.amaraanth.com, Fatrade Beach Road, Varca, Fatrade, 9225588790, Instagram.
It does not get better than this: sustainably built private plunge pool villas with access to a bioluminescent beach. The reviews, like the plankton, are glowing. Welcome to Beleza by the Beach, the stunning South Goa luxury boutique resort of your dreams surrounded by lush paddy fields and white sand. In addition to giving you all the frills - floating pool breakfasts; privacy; serene spa treatments; a string of amazing in-house bars and restaurants, some perched on the paddy fields, others on the beach front - Beleza is firmly dedicated to responsible tourism, actively participating in beach clean-up drives, local sea life conservation projects, organic food cultivation and waste management. Note: Besides plunge-pool villas, Beleza also has regular superior rooms and suites; more information here. We love that their in-house concierge wizard can organise everything from an organic farm tour or birdwatching, at the wave of a hand. Beak performance!
belezagoa.com, Thondwaddo, Betalbatim, Salcette, 9850205647, Instagram.
Elsewhere, which dates back to 1886, is built on land inherited by two brothers - a priest and a gynecologist. Immaculately conceived on this land now are Goa’s most tasteful beach houses to rent - terracotta and sky blue coloured cottages named after what their roles used to be back then (The Piggery, The Bakery, The Priest’s House, The Captain’s House, The Creek House). Elsewhere also offers three butter yellow creek-facing tents with four poster beds, air conditioning, hot showers and if you are lucky, a view of otters swimming past.
www.aseascape.com, Ashvem, Mandrem, 9923587713, Instagram.
This gorgeous 10 bedroom villa in Saligao, exclusively managed by The Villa Escape, is renovated and restored by architect Ayaz Basrai (The Busride Studio). The perfect meeting place for old-world Goan charm and modern luxury, The First House offers high ceilings and plenty of natural light, poker and snooker tables, as well as two swimming pools with clear views of the paddy fields. Meanwhile, a gazebo and sun loungers, wrap-around porches and lawns make themselves available for barbecues, cocktails and tea. There is also uninterrupted Wi-fi and a large screen television for those who can’t shake off their big-city addictions. Our favourite feature: a hydroponic garden that provides the bounty for farm-to-fork dinners; in-villa yoga and massages can be booked as well. P.S: Yes, the Second House restaurant is right next door to The First House.
thefirsthousegoa.com, Muddavaddi, Saligao, 9820027727 / [email protected], Instagram.
Located on the serene island of Chorao (home to the popular Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary) and a short ferry ride from the capital is a boutique Portuguese 3 bed room villa and 2 condos with a private pool. This chicly styled property is for those who want a taste of Goan village life. Amenities & activities include cycling around the island, fishing, kayaking, culinary and culture tours, backwater boat rides and slow living. The villa is equipped with free Wi-Fi, a barbecue grill, cycles and pick up and drop services. The rooms are a haven for quiet reading, yoga and meditation, romantic dining and group bonding, while providing a peek into the rich birdlife of the island.
www.islandsanctuarygoa.com, Pomburpa Road, near Devaki Krishna Temple and Shirodkar Stores, Chorao, 8805808843 / 8805456355, Instagram.
This astonishingly beautiful private mansion isn’t listed on any booking portal, which means you have to get past owner Ozzy Serrao on Whatsapp or Instagram to be considered worthy. Once you’re in, you will discover 12,000 sq ft of pure luxury in the heart of Anjuna, equipped with 2 chefs, 2 massage therapists, and a dedicated staff of 15. The temperature controlled infinity pool overlooks Anjuna’s emerald green paddy fields, the six suites are expansive and decorated with Art Deco and Mid Century furniture sourced from auction houses, including a museum grade piano, a 100-year old iron bathtub in the Penthouse Suite for al fresco bathing, and a light fixture that survived the terror attack on the Taj Hotel, Mumbai. We also love Orchard Manor’s concierge (run by Ozzy himself) that can bag reservations at top restaurants, create bespoke itineraries and organise experiences like single malt tastings and sound healing sessions at the mansion. Om sweet om.
Anjuna Mapusa Road, Gaunvaddi, Anjuna, 9819046730, Instagram, the entire private mansion needs to be booked.
The new-ish JW Marriott Goa in North Goa feels more caring and less corporate, a non-towering building with warm wooden accents, water bodies and lush foliage. It’s got all the efficiency of a five-star, and all the considerate deets of a boutique hotel. First, gush over the hotel’s location and then rush over to their sexy, slick spa that finally offers Goa vacationers and residents a non-Snip massage option. On weekends, go from spa-serene to sonic-sunsets at Agua Bar & Cafe at the brim of a beach-facing infinity pool. End at their new Nikkei (Japanese + Peruvian) restaurant Heliconia, helmed by Peruvian chef, Arturo Castro Salazar.
Vagator Beach, Bardez, call 8326749800, Instagram.
You will want to be like Manoj and Kavita when you grow up. The husband-wife duo traded in their big-bad Bombay corporate life for a sexy, slow one in Goa, where they run the loveliest eco-luxe BnB and pottery studio. Named after the flowering Parijaat flower, this fragrant estate blooms on the edge of Anjuna’s paddy fields, offering its guests isolation from the neighbourhood’s wild nights, but also quick walking access to favourites like Bomra’s, Cream Choc gelato, Slow Tide. A stay at this property feels lush, hushed, and seldom rushed, as you train your binoculars towards the 65 species of visiting birds; read by the spanking infinity pool, eat homemade brekkie with the Mr and Mrs of the manor; and shop ceramics or take a pottery class at Kavita’s MesseKe Studio. The guest cottage is gorgeous: a grove of palm trees surrounding an airy, high ceilinged home with four poster beds, writing desks and stained glass doors that turn the light into a technicoloured dream.
Parijaat, Mazal Waddo, Anjuna, near Cream Choc gelato shop, 9820044249, Instagram here & here.
A mere 40 minute drive from North Goa’s new MOPA airport, this 18th century palace hotel - the only palace hotel in Maharashtra - run by the royal family is the ‘yasss kween’ of the Konkan coast. Imagine a boutique hotel whose design is driven by 16th century Ganjifa art, rooms decked with antiques, a lush pool framed by palm trees and open courtyards that let the rain in. Its founder residents crowned prince and princess Lakham and Shraddha Bhonsle are both Culinary Institute of America graduates, which means that this property is more than just a stunner. Together, the Bhonsles are creating a culinary cradle in Sawantwadi - also great for day food trips from Goa - offering Konkan heirloom recipes along with what they specialise in - Japanese and Korean food plus hand rolled croissants and plated desserts that look like the crown jewels.
sawantwadipalace.com, NH17, Sindhudurg, Khaskilwada, Sawantwadi, 7498488318, Instagram.
An eight acre forest estate that’s been in the Navelkar family for 200 years, now keeps within it seven Portuguese style villas, each named for a flower. The Periwinkle villa is our favourite, also favoured by lovers and honeymooners, we’re told. Cocooned by jungle cover, and buzzing with birds and butterflies, you’ll never guess that this property is just a couple of minutes away from the Candolim beach. It’s ideal for milestone celebrations with friends, family and intimate weddings, where guests can enjoy a 48 foot swimming pool, a spa on request, yoga and meditation hut, as well as lush nooks for neat naps.
wildflowergoa.com, 1709/A1, Saipem Candolim, 9168839229, Instagram.
Other stay options: Ahilya by the Sea; Cabo Serai; Anamiva; The Postcard Hotels, Vaayu Kula; Casa Galgibaga.
This is Moira’s most beloved tavern, where star-shaped lanterns shine their light on garden and porch seating in a lovely old mustard coloured home. Their tongue chilly, and serradura topped with Baileys are top notch, as is their hero grapefruit cocktail BelGinDa named for their founder Belinda. Call ahead and try to make it for karaoke night on Saturdays.
Raint Vaddo, near Moira Main Church, Moira, 8779335890, Instagram.
Bring out the Mom Perignon for आई, a true celebration of Saraswat food in Goa. Founder-chef Shubhra Shankhwalker is a benefactor of recipes passed down from her mum and mother-in-law and she is generous enough to share her inheritance with us, via a home delivery service and sit-down meals at her home. Here’s what our आई feast looked like: Backwater Prawn and Hog Plum Curry; Tendli and Raw Cashew; Tambdi Bhaji, Green-Chutney Stuffed Rawa Fried Mackerel (morning catch); Red Rice & Solkadi.
Call / Whatsapp Shubhra for menu + order at 9890238080; Instagram.
It’s easy to mistake this beach bar's cocktail menu for a garden harvest one, where pastel coloured flowers bloom in fragrant cocktails and Ashwem’s hippest hippies gather for post swim aperitivo. Our recommendation: get a batch of their prosecco-based Super Mimosas and climb up to the mezzanine for stunning sunset views with your sips. Closed for the season so check back post monsoon.
Ashwem Beach, near Change Your Mind, Ashwem, Instagram.
Sheltered inside the Anamiva boutique hotel, this new vinyl and craft cocktail bar in Anjuna is super proud of its hand-built Analog Audiophile System and turntables, setting the stage for music that spans from jazz to rock. Try a tiki cocktail or a beetroot shrub milk washed-tequila potion by the pool.
Survey No. 509, House No. 1259/2 & 1259/3, 1A, Gaonwadi, behind Anamiva Hotel, Anjuna, 8237392976, Instagram.
You'll learn to ignore the plastic chairs at this Goan restaurant once you get started on their seriously stunning pork sorpotel and ribs. If you are seeking refuge from the Bali-fication of Goa’s restaurant space, a proper Goan meal at this fuss-free village eatery will set you straight.
Mapusa Aldona Road, Nachinola, 9421194482.
Is Bar Outrigger the most fun bar experience in India right now? It might be; we flew to Goa just for it and we’d do it again. Surrounded by water on three sides with push open windows - and a smoker’s staircase that disappears into the sea! - this new ode-to-rum Goa bar seems to be teetering at the edge of the sea, held in place by star bar player Arijit Bose. Inside, Outrigger feels like a pirate’s lair without feeling like a Jack Sparrow themed ride. Big bowls of tropical fruit, sailing ropes and a port hole are bound together by Busride’s slick design elements. Our favourite things about Bar Outrigger: the cocktails - delicious but not deliriously complicated - don’t take themselves too seriously; it isn’t located in Assaago or Anjuna, but in an old residential village in Dona Paula; you can go during the day, leave your half drunk cocktail for a beach swim which is just a flight of stairs away (they have showers and towels!) and return; or ask them to pack you a picnic of oysters and beer and arrange a boat trip.
Dona Paula Road, Panaji, 9146867585, Instagram.
This “family restaurant & bar” is the best place to sit down for a Goan Portuguese feast. From Crab Xacuti and sannas to rava fried fish and beef cutlets, this one features on the top 10 Goa lists of several chefs and restaurateurs.
Bhatti Waddo, Nerul, 9822184103, Instagram.
This beach destination shows off a private white sandy beach for a perfectly lazy brunch, sunset sundowners with their resident DJ and a Mediterranean & seafood menu. Their sea-to-plate recommendations here feature the recheado crab / lobster and grilled local chonak with seafood laksa risotto. The menu also includes authentic local fare, curated by son of the soil, Chef Rohan DSouza. At the bar, savour the lush liquid umami of the Yuzu Blossom with whisky and yuzu marmalade or feel the sea breeze with the tequila, coconut milk, pandan & pineapple concoction of Lucent Co-Lada. The venue is wheelchair accessible, pet and kid friendly, with ample parking making it a perfect choice for a beach day, long brunches, sundowners and dinners. See you at the beach!
174/6A, Gawdewada Road, Morjim, 8805808530 / 8263960079, Instagram.
Pankaj Balachandran (Bar Tesouro, Countertop cocktail consultants) and Nakul Bhonsle (Great State Ale Works) come together to give us a faux dive bar in Siolim that mixes a merry Goa mood with a masterful cocktail program. Here, drinks combine ingredients like caramelised Moira bananas with miso and feni; gochujang, jalapeno, pineapple and grapefruit with tequila. Beer is on tap and flavoured / infused / aged with cashews, Gondhoraj limes and whisky. Also, hi to Bombay’s Rajat Mendhi from Bombay Picnics who consulted on the food. Ants, march forward.
Church, Vaddi Siolim, Enroute Thalassa from, opposite Vailanka Wine store, Siolim, 9226049851, Instagram.
Committed Goa thali hunter and bpb Goa contributor Insia Lacewalla loves Bombil; get the amazing vegetarian thali, she says, with a ton of seafood-of-the-day offerings on the side. For a more local vibe, hit Satpurush and follow it up with a nap at Morjim beach, which is a seashell’s throw away.
Bombil, opp Military Hospital, Campal Brg, Panaji; Satpurush, New Wada, Morjim.
So many years later, Bomras is still on everyone's Goa gluttony list and for good reason. Their Southeast Asian-inspired modern cuisine driven by chef Bawmra, draws inspiration from Northern Burma's ethnic tribes. It’s easy to skip over their tomato salad, but don’t. It is bright and bristling with toasted peanuts and fried onions + garlic. Combine this with a meal of Black Scotched Eggs, Pickled Tea Leaf Salad, Spicy Beef Tataki, Jamón Iberico with Honeydew Melon, and the crowd-favourite Khow Suey at Sunday brunch. Chef Bawmra’s kitchen is a lesson in quiet consistency, a reminder that reliability can be sexy too!
1152, opp. Our Lady Of Health Chapel, Mazal Waddo, Anjuna, 9767591056, Instagram.
Ditch the over-Instagrammed feni field experience for this fantastic farm feast instead. Perched in the hills of the South, this is quite possibly the freshest meal you will eat in Goa. Celebrity chef Avinash Martins is the chief bounty hunter here at this by-reservation-only spot (book 48 hours prior, minimum 6 people), serving beautifully plated modern interpretations of local dishes like crab xec xec, Kalchi kodi, fish head caldo and a mezze platter that tastes of Goa. Like the kitchen, the bar here is also in hot pursuit of fresh, local inspiration.
Velim Salcette, South Goa, 8805258277, Instagram.
The next best thing to eating at a nona’s home, is stopping by Casanoni’s two-storey Trattoria that excels at putting out the best Napoli pizza (the parma ham is our fav!) and hand-rolled pasta. We love going on days when they’ve caught fresh clams that the kitchen adds to our light linguine order that we balance out with a rich ragu Bolognese. In the midst of our carb fest, we never forget to place an order for their stellar beef carpaccio and affogato, to stop to appreciate their Vermuteria that stocks housemade vermouths, their excellent Limoncello, and a rainbow of well-considered cocktails. PS: While the olive oil, balsamic vinegar and cheese including Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino Romano are flown in from Italy, the seafood, meat and veggies are locally sourced. The fruits of the Fontainhas are many, and Casanoni Trattoria is among its juiciest.
House no 4207, Rua De Querem, Cortim, Fontainhas, Panaji, 7837834207, Instagram.
Appearing consistently on India's best restaurant lists and rating charts, Cavatina is the reason to travel to South Goa. Headed by star chef Avinash Martins, this modern Indian restaurant re-imagines Goan food while you take in a stunning sunset in Benaulim. Chef Martins works with the best farmers and local producers which means the ingredients are super fresh, and the menus, seasonal. bpb loves: Sannas and Toddy Tapper; clams just fished out of the river Sal and cooked with almond ajo blanco sauce, local seaweed and kaffir lime oil; and a Portuguese Serradura made as a torte.
Taj Hotel Road, near Joecons Beach Resort, Benaulim, South Goa, 7276413482, Instagram.
What started as a lockdown business for husband-wife duo Karan & Aishwarya selling Kerala pickles in Goa, is now a lovely little Malayali restaurant in Panjim with checkered floors and a view of the Rua De Ourem creek. Get the podi started here with playful cocktails, mop up Malabar curries with parottas and appams, keep room for Thalassery biryani, and don't forget to buy Ammama-approved pickles on your way out.
www.mychakos.com, 1st Floor, Avanti, Rua De Ourem, Opposite Patto Bridge, Panjim, 9322161846, Instagram.
The only Goa scoop you’ll ever need! While they home deliver limited flavours, it's best to visit this church-view dessert parlour for rotating new ones - we once tried a candied ginger-yogurt ice cream that we can’t stop thinking about. A Sicilian Pistachio- Dark Chocolate half-and-half scoop is our regular go-to.
Near Our Lady Of Health Chapel Complex, Mazal Waddo, Anjuna, 8766735358, Instagram.
Previously a pop-up at the Kochi Biennale, this Anjuna restaurant in an old Portuguese home, does not use terms like ‘ingredient driven’ and ‘zero waste’ to tick all the marketing boxes. A ton of research and careful ingredient sourcing makes every meal here super interesting, the whole experience directed by food geek, sustainable warrior and chef Anumitra, who is also armed with a PhD in cognitive linguistics and extensive work-ex in kitchens around the world. Get a batch of Blue Moon cocktails (made from butterfly pea flowers) to support aromatic rice and fish dishes.
1301, Anjuna Mapusa Road, Kumbhar Vaddo, Anjuna, 8308830750, Instagram.
Sip deliciously potent cocktails on a paddy field, while you play spot the peacocks during the monsoon, which promises to be this show’s best season yet. Follow this pachyderm’s programing on Instagram to discover and attend intimate live gigs and smashing DJ sets. On more sedate nights, partner-owner Moustapha offers a where-everybody-knows-your-name vibe.
House no. 1049/2, Survey no. 16/1 Grand Pedder Field, Peddem, Anjuna, 7666361130, Instagram.
With its crochet umbrellas and bamboo boundaries, Betim’s Feri Bar may seem like a generic Insta-island bar, but the riverside location and sunset views feel special. Multi-hyphenate (artist, multiple bar owner, entrepreneur) Siddharth Kerkar spins this feri tale, with a narrative that includes grills with buttered poi and cocktails, with a view of the river, migratory birds and sunning otters.
167-B, road, Alto- Betim Porvorim, Verem, 9156145044, Instagram.
Named after Thailand’s national bird, the Siamese Fireback, this hot new restaurant from the Indian Accent flock gives us much to tweet about. First and foremost, it makes good on two promises - lovely views and legendary curries. Sit before the grand St Anthony’s Church and order from a menu put together by multi-award winning chef David Thompson and the Fireback team, who focus on “authentic, unfussy” dishes. The Josper grill is the star of the show here while the kitchen sends out a range of fluffy omlettes, small plates, salads, skewers and curries. bpb recommends: the pomelo-ginger-coconut-betel-leaf salad; soft shell crab red curry; skewered turmeric prawns and stir-fried beans. You can choose to sit indoors in a glass house style set up, or walk out onto a river-side deck where a seductive bar serves a host of craft cocktails, including whisky with galangal brine, gin with Thai basil and custard apple, and rum with rice and mango.
Firebackrestaurant.com, Irada Home, House No. 60/1 A1, near St. Anthony's Church, Siolim, Bardez, 9209717970, Instagram.
A bar that’s dedicated to everything your hipster heart desires - vinyls and well-made cocktails using their very own distilled feni and decoctions. Often the last stop on our Panjim bar crawl, for pizza and feni cocktails. And rise up for their sourdough workshops.
Jukebox, house no 49, next to Audiophile Goa, Fontainhas, Mala, Panaji, 7507472587, Instagram.
Home of the Anjuna hipsters, Grind Bar is the coffee place where you and your beanie need to be scene-y. Order their Coffee Lemonade + PB&J on sourdough, while you ask after their weekend bar takeovers and listening room.
1 & 2, 1269/3 Casa Esmeralda Gaum Wadi, Anjuna Mapusa Road, Bardez, 8799920954, Instagram.
Among the many legs in the furniture-favoured neighbourhood of Sangolda - hello, Saudades, Freedom Tree, Paper Boat - lie hands that mix the tastiest cocktails and stir delicious Asian sharing plates at Grumps, a brand new neighborhood bar. Our favourite Grumps routine is to get a seat at the bar, share plates of grilled beef tongue and bacon fried rice, and get multiple rounds of Smack That, a magical clear cocktail made with cashew, maraschino, frangipani and snack pepper brine. PS: look for cute co-owner Kartik, who in the past has worked with Izumi Goa and The Bombay Canteen-O Pedro group.
58/B, Grumps Street, Sangolda, 9226396226, Instagram.
Cream cheese garlic buns and raspberry almond tarts on speed dial. You can stop by this bread-box sized Assagao bakery or order in; chef-owner Namrata Pai’s dark chocolate-sea salt cookies are a guaranteed cure to the Monday blues. New on the menu: tiramisu tubs, baked yogurt and granola parfait, fresh pineapple brown butter almond cake.
510/4 Bounta Vaddo, Assagao, 8322959952, Instagram.
The next time you wash up on Goa’s shores, drop in and experience the vibe of the eternally optimistic Hello Sunshine Cafe, a healthy all-day brekkie and lunch spot in Anjuna. With a focus on creating dishes using fresh local ingredients, this little cafe compels you to bring friends and share everything: fantastic crepes and waffles, eggs and smoothie bowls, gluten-free, sugar-free brownies and super freshly baked goods. And while you are ordering, don’t miss their delicious Buma Devi dark roast from Marcs Coffee in Auroville. We love that while you can get a virtuous hot ginger lemon turmeric hand pounded healthy drink mix here (it’s a crowd favourite!), Hello Sunshine doesn’t forget that you sometimes need a potent cocktail or a glass of prosecco to go with lunch.
Verandah Hotel, Igraj Waddo, Anjuna, 7887998957, Instagram.
They made it to Asia’s 50 Best Bars list this year! A garden bar for outdoor drinking and live music gigs, this is a great option for your Anjuna bar hopping night. Get a big bowl of nachos with pork chorizo and butter garlic calamari, with repeat rounds of margaritas and palomas.
Cross Anjuna, house no. 622, Chapora, Vagator, 9049097014, Instagram.
We dare you to resist the charms of HOSA, a restaurant that has all of this (and more) in its arsenal: a glorious 122 year old home, a giddy bar and a Guntur Crab Fry to die for. The makers of Indian Accent and Comorin nurtured HOSA, which just turned one, and continues to celebrate the culinary diversity of South India with a brand-new menu and an exhibition of photographs by renowned photographer Rohit Chawla, titled 'The Inspired Frame'. Chef Suresh DC has created a collection of mico-regional dishes including Ginger Tamarind Pork Ribs, Alleppey Seafood HotPot; Nellai Chicken Curry and Iyengar Honey Cake.
www.hosarestaurant.com, Irada Home, Near St. Anthony’s Church, Siolim, Bardez, 8326747212/7498627977, Instagram.
Blooming in Botanique’s backyard is Bombay’s Izumi, a place where you can eat your unagi and sip your sake, swimming poolside. Get the Hanataba Vegetable Tempura, Negi Chutoro with Crispy Inari and Avocado, Katsu Sandos and the new Tamago with Mentaiko mayo. We’re egging you on.
45, Mapusa-Anjuna - Chapora Road, Assagao, 9923645569, Instagram.
The Bentota Box pop kitchen in Mumbai and Goa is the origin story of this Sri Lankan bar and restaurant that now lives in Panjim. A chilli guava-cinnamon liqueur called Supiri Pera should kick off your visit, followed by chef Lisa Sadanah’s mini stuffed hoppers, an avocado pachadi with shards of dosa and a grand crab curry, best paired with chilled beer.
Pinto Arcade, Dayanand Bandodkar Marg, Campal, Panaji, 9307513221, Instagram.
On your Mapusa market run, stop by this old school Goan bakery for the best Batica cake, made with coconut and semolina.
Khorlim, Mapusa, Goa, 8322262651.
While hipsters hem and haw about Joseph becoming "too commercial", we still can't resist the lure of this atmospheric feni bar. Always the first stop in our Fontainhas-fun bar hop! Chat with manager Gundu while he serves up Tambde Rosa cocktails and cool stories.
Gomes Pereira Road, Altinho, 8788432184, Instagram.
We’re always happy to hear of a new Goa restaurant opening that whisks us away from the frenetic North to the more serene South. Forks, step up to Juju, a new modern Indian restaurant helmed by Chef Abhijit Khandual, who previously spooned the Oberoi and Trident. Work up an appetite with a swim in the ocean and wash up at Juju for Duck Kurchan Bondas, Chicken Tenders Travencore, and Pandi Pork Chops, Truffle Mushroom Galouti, Zafrani Berry Pulav and more. The bar program matches up, with cocktails that celebrate the diverse flavours of India. We’ll drink to Juju, with an apricot Pahadi Sour in hand.
jujugoa.com, House number 29/1, Gandaulim, Colva, Salcete, 8956691430, Instagram.
Go from vibrant sundowners to a perfectly tranquil night by the sea, as you sip on curated cocktails. The zing of jalapeño in their Mango Tango, the kick of strawberry in Kiki Do You Love Me and the tart twinge of the Kala Khatta Beerita - a lovechild of good ol' beer and margaritas are must trys. With nature as their muse, siblings Harshit and Akriti offer a seaside sanctuary with a sensory menu, featuring global classics soundtracked by stirring live music and international performances in the day, to the lapping of tides by night. What's more is their immaculate service that goes above and beyond for unwinding at luncheon as well as intimate candlelit dinners.
www.kikigoa.com, Badem, Siolim, 9999074074, Instagram.
An incredible new location in Panjim! CIA graduates bring us insanely good fried chicken and confit garlic grilled cheese, braided cinnamon donuts and chocolate chip cookies that are bigger than your face. PS: they bake the most decadent celebration cakes, including a towering made-to-order croquembouche. Happy birthday to us!
HO, 1/61, Vivenda Aleluia, Rua São Tomé, behind GPO, Panaji, 9359815109, Instagram.
It doesn’t get more Goan than this - a favourite amongst locals and tourists alike. Sip on a refreshing cocktail as you watch local fishing boats sail along the Nerul River while being serenaded to live music. Located on the pristine backwaters of North Goa, this grill house and bar brings you their signature mud crabs and red snapper fresh from the river. Apart from their dedicated Goan menu, they offer award-winning steaks and grills and signature vegetarian selections from curries to continental. At Lazy Goose, you can also opt to experience crab catching and fishing or simply enjoy a backwater sunset boat ride to spot birds and crocs.
Below the Nerul Candolim bridge, Nerul River, 7020315563, Instagram.
Marāi is restaurant monarch, Malini Akerkar’s marvellous Goa offering, where she and her daughter Amalia Akerkar (an International Culinary Center graduate) run a micro culinary city of sorts. Nestled in what appears like an enchanted garden, Marāi feels both magical and grounded in community, offering a suite of different spaces, beginning with Goa’s first-ever wine and tapas bar, which offers an impressive selection of 25 wines from around the world by the glass, complemented by cocktails (try The Goan—a refreshing blend of tequila and kokum). The property also houses a delicatessen, a bakery, and dynamic experiences like all-day brunch and Smokehouse Sundays with live music. Regulars rave about the Eggs Benny, Pressed Lamb Taco, Beef Tataki, Spaghetti Al Limone, their burgers and steak; as well as the Deli’s dangerous Comfort Chocolate Cake, freshly-baked breads and viennoiserie, all of which embody Marāi’s ethos of sustainability and flavor.
Viegas Vaddo Road, Arpora, 9920201231, Instagram.
This Middle Eastern restaurant is the perfect pit stop during your determined Sangolda shopping day, offering cold mezze platters and chilled cocktails. Remember to order the hot Turkish wings in addition to the usual hummus-pita routine, and for the finalé, homemade ice cream and Persian cream puffs.
House no 134, Mae de Deus Vaddo, Chogm Road, Sangolda, Instagram.
In many ways, Miguel’s kickstarted the posh culinary scene at Panjim’s Fontainhas, paving the way for experimental new restaurants and getting North Goa groups to pencil a Panjim day into their schedules. Showman chef and leader Madhav Dayal is ambitious and it shows in the kitchen’s constant innovations (hello, Jackson Pollock steak) and the bar that sends out excellents cocktails (Old fashioneds with coconut sugar) and petiscos.
H No 111 Bento Miguel, Old Patto Bridge, Panaji, 9112222584, Instagram.
Motley Brew pours freely at The Aguad, an old Portuguese prison complex (dating back to 1612) lined with palm trees on the edge of the Arabian Sea. The Motley crew at Motley Brew serves coffees, teas & tisanes personally sourced by expert sommeliers from India’s finest plantations & estates. Their offerings are of rare provenance, shade grown, bird & bee friendly, ethically sourced, sustainable, fair trade and promise a 21 day turnaround from bush to mug. Someone award them a cup already! They also serve beer and cocktails infused with tea and coffee which makes this a lovely spot for sundowners. Teetotallers at high tea, settle into their Tasting Room to experience manual coffee brewing percolations, cold brews and Nitro coffees paired with savoury and patisserie treats, many of which are crafted from their beans and teas.
Aguada Port & Jail Complex, Sinquerim, 9226916106, Instagram, shop online at, motleybrew.in.
A Nao Spirits (Greater Than, Hapusa) office by day, cocktail bar by night, this new spot knows that work can be rough which is why they’ve divided the beverage menu by Long Days, Tough Days and Half Days. Order a quick bite from the Snacks Break list and sip on an EOD or Out of Office cocktail to watch your stress melt away.
Ground floor, Mayfair Hotel, Dr Dada Vaidya Road, near Mahalaxmi Temple, Altinho, Panaji, Instagram.
Oppas presents itself in a food truck avatar at Anjuna, as well as a Chapora restaurant across from Holy Cross Chapel. Both dole out the best beef roast poies. Can I get an amen?
Anjuna, outside Oxford Supermarket; Chappora, Instagram.
This bar may have title-transitioned from Escobar to Pablo's, but its chilled vibe remains. One of our favourite Goa spots to get a drink, this "friendly neighbourhood bar" writes its cocktail menu on the tiled wall of the self service bar, and also has interesting beer on tap. Stop by for infused feni and a local tavern-like atmosphere.
Junction, Badem Road, Badem, Assagao, Vagator, 9890345291, Instagram.
You’ll go for the Portuguese pastel de natas, you’ll stay for the Sour Cherry Financiers. Also order their punchy stout beer cheese toast and incredible new chicken and egg muffin. At the end of the year, always save room for the strawberry and cream bun.
Celeste Plaza, ground floor, opposite Models Celebrity, Caranzalem, Panaji, 9322806130, Instagram.
27-year-old Ninoshka D’Souza took over her grandfather’s bar that was shuttered for 26 years, to restart Peter Tavern. Post 9 pm, regulars pour into this family-run tavern for feni and salt-pepper beef; Ninoshka recommends you try her favourites - choriz french fries and golden fried butter garlic squid. She is also open to renting out the entire tavern in the afternoon if you’d like to host a private susegado style lunch. Don’t forget to invite us!
Paliem Shemeachem Bhatt, Ucassaim, 7507587060, Instagram, 7 pm to 11pm, closed on Mondays.
New from the Padaria Prazeres people, this new Panjim diner serves “fuss-free” European food cooked in an open kitchen. Go for the lemon-brown butter gnocchi and order repeats of the pina coladas garnished with baby’s breath.
Off Rua de Ourém, behind Hotel Sona Building, Altinho, Goa, Panaji, 8459801154, Instagram.
Lunch and lounge on the porch of an old village home where the freshest mackerel (order a day in advance) is hay-smoked in front of you to present what could well be the most elegantly flavoured fish you’ll eat in Goa. The plastic-chair-and-table set up is super basic, the food, brilliant. Their fried chonak and prawn curry are great too.
House no 954/7, Pequem, Peddem, Monteiro Vaddo, Anjuna, 9822583319, Instagram.
Pomfret in Panjim comes with a show at Sarvaa, where a slew of Indian dishes - “sans borders” are flambeed table side. Expect a smashing Malwani Ghavran Mutton or an equally enticing Bengali Lobster Malai Curry on the menu, with a Sarvaa spin. They just wrapped up an amazing Odia pop-up, which we hope to see on the roster again. The weekends are for Smokin’ Saturday and Sunday Brunch, both of which are great fun.
Ground floor, CMM building, Rua de Ourem, Near old Patto Bridge, Next to Hotel Sona Royale, Altinho, Panjim, 7400400547 / 7400400118, Instagram.
The darlings from The Daily in Mumbai have worked with architect Ayaz Basrai and ex O Pedro chef Jyoti Singh to build out your new second house in Goa, so visit often. This visual art, restaurant and bar space set in an extraordinary old home strives to be as much about Goa’s future as it is about its past. Trust us and get the flavour-bomb Salmon Toast topped with egg yolk jam.
The Second House, next to The First House, Muddavaddi, Saligao, 8530266603, Instagram.
A 132 year-old hardware store in Siolim has been carefully converted into a vintage yakitori house by restoration experts and architects Studio Praia. Yakitori, sushi platters and precious sake cocktails served in an intimate, moody space makes this a great option for date night.
JQJ7+FW7, Siolim, 8530777367, Instagram.
Goa resident Neil D’souza hoped to re-define the Anjuna shack when he dreamed up Slow Tide and teamed up with award winning Sri Lankan architect Palinda Kannangara, to create a space that’s a nod to the neighbourhood’s OG hippie culture. Perched at the lip of Anjuna beach, Slow Tide’s stunning expanse is divided into a dreamy long bar; beachfront frolick seats; a sand pit like-area to stroll through barefoot in between courses; and a sparkling indoor dining room. At the bar, order cocktails that are modern odes to the alcohol culture of Goa (get high on Acid Erik). The kitchen sends out sophisticated dishes from Indian communities influenced by the Portuguese, including Thalipeeth, Chorizo Hot Dogs and our favourite Spiced Pineapple Curry.
slowtidegoa.com, Dmello Vaddo, Anjuna, 8055255266, Instagram.
Behind a bookshelf and under a sandwich shop, crouches a crimson coloured speakeasy with crafty cocktails. While its antique phones and gilded picture frames - even the code to enter, for that matter - might feel a bit five years ago a la PCO, but this is still a super fun late night plan, especially on balmy summer nights when very few other Goa bars have air conditioning.
Plot 1240, Anjuna, walk through Big Fat Sandwich and go down to the basement from the bookshelf.
Perhaps it’s a Bombay thing, but we prefer to skip the slow many-courses meal and go instead for Suzie’s stellar cocktails (St. Lawrence) + quick orders from the starters menu (Pork Chao Shou). Its pretty, twinkling space populated with plants and peace is great for date night.
House no. 531, near Chari Garage, Bouta Waddo, Assagao, 7498856389, Instagram.
Sacha of Sacha’s shop, and her partner run this dosa diner where you can get an excellent mackerel vadais, as well Cazulo-jambul coolers spiked with whatever makes you happy. PS: always ask for extra helpings of their roasted peanut chutney.
House no 261, Socolvaddo, Assagao, 7499922517, Instagram.
At least one Ashwem swim day should end at Verandah, where an enchanted Eden houses all the gin you can drink and grassy paths lead to a coveted top table with front row seats to the sweetest gigs. Order coils of Spaghetti alla Nerano, heaps of fresh salad and pizza.
Calist House, Ashwem-Mandrem Road, Mandrem, 9503105092, Instagram.
Everyone's favourite culinary star turns five this December, and they’re celebrating with a slew of shiny, new things. First up in the kitchen, a constellation of new dishes including Katsu Curry, Penang Curry Noodle Bowl and The Tomba Pizza, as well as a baby pizza oven that’s been doing the rounds for their in-villa catering. Next, mosey on to the bar where a new cocktail menu will smooth talk you into trying one of each; we recommend the Italian prosecco cocktail list. And last but not yeast, this Arpora restaurant is opening a gourmet sandwich shop - Nova Sandwich Shop - in Anjuna this December, just in time for the season(ing).
House No. 286, Dias Waddo, Arpora-Nagoa, 9168862111, Instagram.
Walk across Arambol beach, over the rocks and through the foliage to the coconut grove where you will spy and sigh at the Vagkolam sweet water lake and multani mitti spring. Pack a wine picnic. Leave your heart behind but not your litter.
Arambol Beach, North Goa.
The Paul John distillery is now open to you! Cheers indeed. The tour starts at just Rs 300 and goes up to Rs 1,000, depending on how many single malts you’d like to sip while also learning about the rare art of distilling in fine copper pot stills, surrounded by towering whisky barrels and touring the underground cellars.
www.pauljohnwhisky.com, M 21, Cuncolim Industrial Area, Cuncolim, 7447788979, Instagram.
The Flying Goat cafe and bookstore in Anjuna transforms into an open air theatre on most Sunday nights. The films are curated by Lost The Plot, an indie film licensing agency - expect a line-up of interesting and often rare movies. Find yourself a cozy spot (they fill up soon!) under a sky of dimly lit naked bulbs, surrounded by trees at this outdoor movie watching experience. No garden variety cinema, this.
Anjuna, call 9820772399, check their Instagram for line-up and schedule, shut on Wednesdays.
If you’d rather have your secret watering hole trips planned, Urbanaut offers these + other lovely Goa experiences from feni tastings to long lunches in the field. New on their experience list is a three hour Konkan Explorers yacht trip on the Chapora river where you can jump off the boat and on to kayaks, standing paddle boards or straight into the water for a swim. Beer and snacks included.
Learn to make and paint your own ceramic tiles or azulejos, an art imported here by the Portuguese. The Azulejos de Goa gallery, located in a 250-year-old Indo-Portuguese home in Panjim, sells and customises tiles and crockery, but founder Orlando also conducts tile making workshops for wall to wall fun. One-on-one and group classes, by appointment only.
azulejosdegoa.com, opp Captain of Ports, Panjim, call 8322431900/9822976867.
The Storiculture Company in Aldona empowers voices and storytellers from across South Asia, and conducts super interesting and legitimate immersive experiences, residencies, workshops and events, many of which are taught and presided over by global, award-winning creators.
Read more at www.thestoriculturecompany.com, headquartered in Aldona.
This culinary school believes that plant based food is the future, and runs 9 week culinary programs to nudge you in that direction. Courses include Culinary Wellness, Fermentation, Gluten-Free and Oil-Free Cooking, Noodles and Pasta, Raw Gastronomy, Entertaining at Home and more. The school’s co-founder Nisha Garg, who has previously worked at Bomras and Stockholm plant based restaurant Växthuset teaches here as well.
www.theveganschool.org, 9903761884, Instagram.
Bombay-based PR maverick Schubert Fernandes and musician Omar De Loiola Pereira have joined forces to bring back traditional sounds of Goa. They do this by creating an intimate setting to showcase local folk music, which they are very clear does NOT include the Goan bands you hear at restaurant brunches. They arrange concerts staged in spectacular heritage homes paired with “forgotten” culinary delicacies prepared by home chefs under the guidance of Chef Oliver of The Goan Kitchen. Fado music with a side of rissois, anyone?
Call 9819792973 / [email protected], to attend a performance DM them on Instagram.
An hour’s drive from Goa in the seaside village of Sawantwadi, is where Dr. Bosco Henriques has set up his lovely organic BioDye factory. With the use of over 100 plants, they dye natural fabrics using only non-toxic and biodegradable inputs for slow fashion labels the world over, including Bodice, Brigitte Singh, Woolmark. If you are truly interested and ask nicely, Dr Henriques will be happy to show you around the facility and maybe even let you learn to dye with dignity.
1101 Bebiwadi, Madkhol, Sawantwadi, www.biodye.in, Instagram.
Bookmark this for the monsoon! Jungle compatriots Parag Rangnekar and Omkar Dharwadkar run nerdy seasonal walks under Mrugaya Xpeditions, and we’re here to recommend their trippy monsoon one. Bioluminescent mushrooms, mercurial hump-nosed pit vipers, bug-eyed bush frogs, and other creatures await during a night-time walk in the non-protected areas around Netravali and Bhagwan Mahaveer Wildlife Sanctuaries. Fair warning: your silk PJs won’t survive this night.
Call 9822129811
With additions from Insia Lacewalla, founder of India With Insia.
Don't forget to dip into our archive of super useful bpb Long Lists for recommendations on the hottest gifts to give, the best home improvements to make, the hottest snaxx for your hunger and tried-and-rested beauty buys.
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