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15.03.2017

It's good to know that Jimmy's charm, like a bar seat at Nosh & Tipple, cannot be reserved in advance.

The bartender turns on his charm unexpectedly and it spontaneously combusts; he breaks into a dance if the song is right; and if you need your cocktails to gather more might, he may even let you behind the bar. Of course, being a lady helps. 

We think of Jimmy as a flaming shot - well, he is on fire tonight - potent and flamboyant, although diminutive, mixing martinis and sending over secret concoctions. Like for instance, The Jimmy Special, a gauze-light summery drink with a touch of coconut toddy, we suspect, but Jimmy won't confirm. "I told you not to ask." Definitely order this, and also a round of stiff martinis with calisthenic lemon twists. 

The Jimmy Special, a gauze-light summery drink with a touch of coconut toddy, we suspect, but Jimmy won't confirm.

Now that Jimmy has done his job, we look to the chef, expecting the same electricity. What we get are dimmer lights, but lights none the less. No bleak, greasy bar starters here - just top class filo triangles fattened up with minced chicken and Moroccan spice-rubbed cottage cheese that alternate with fresh veggies on skewers. Make up for fried filo with Cous Cous salad where a tart vinaigrette will make your mouth pucker and sweet raisins will take the piquant out of your pout. Dreary, chewy slow-braised chicken on the other hand is in dire need of a disco ball. Order more bar snacks, we suggest, and end with macarons. They're sweet, light and shy of artificial flavours. Sounds like Jimmy on a day off. 

Getting there: 86, Spencers Building, Church Street, call 08049653047, approximately Rs 2200 for a meal for two with drinks. 

Accessibility: One step up in the pavement to the entrance.

bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.

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Food & Drink