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The allure of good bread is strong, which is why we found ourselves loitering outside Suzette Bakery all of last weekend – it was slated to open on Monday, and we were hoping for an early taste. What we saw – and scored at a tasting – had us walking in Monday morning with much anticipation and a big appetite.

Think rows and rows of pastries, sandwiches and pain au chocolate, stacks of cookies and brioches and bundles of baguettes, all displayed in sexy dark granite and against bright white tiles. We bounce a little with delight and order much, much more than we should.

Suzette Bakery gets one really important thing right: their French-leaning dessert selection is well balanced and not overly sweet. The lemon tart is a quick favourite with pucker-ish lemon curd offering a perfect contrast to lightly sweetened meringue and buttery crust. A Paris-Brest is equally excellent - luscious swirls of praline cream prettily sandwiched between rings of choux pastry. (We're making a mental note to pack one up for a hostess gift this weekend, certain it'll win us dinner-guest-of-the-year).

Lightly spiced carrot cake with cream cheese frosting and golden-edged buttery madeleines straight from the oven make a lovely accompaniment to a cup of tea or coffee (they serve Koinonia), and a creamy, much Instagrammed mille feuille has the power to stop traffic. We're less keen, however on the apple puff - we appreciate its barely-there sweetness but find there's not much real flavour or fun.

Suzette’s flaky, buttery croissant is an old favourite, as is their chewy sourdough: but fans should also try the new addition of brioche buns. With little speckles of chorizo and cheddar or olive, cheddar and sun-dried tomatoes, they're equally about the crusty, soft bread as they are about the fillings, and so good with a liberal smear of butter. The bakery also stocks vegan brioche buns, keto bread liberally studded with nuts and seeds, a gluten-free sourdough and the prettiest, most indulgent looking puff-brioche, a cross between a croissant and a brioche.

Suzette does a small section of savoury snacks as well. We make quick work of an excellent spinach and cheese quiche, unapologetically, deliciously egg-y with a generous amount of greens and tomatoes. Their cold sandwiches however are underwhelming and in need more flavour – we try salmon cream cheese and avo-cream cheese versions that both suffer from blandness.

Still, Suzette's new bakery is our new favourite dessert shop, and we're already dreaming of round two. Choosing between the chocolate tart and the praline rocher is going to be the toughest decision we’ll make this weekend.

Getting there: Suzette Bakery, Shop No 10, Gasper Enclave, St John St, Bandra West, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400050. Ph: 022-66940027

bpb was recognised during the review, but paid for its own meals.

This review was conducted by a bpb friend and Le Cordon Bleu trained kitchen aficionado.

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Food & Drink