The best of what to eat/shop/do in your city, delivered in a brown paper bag

Wake up to daily updates in your inbox

01.11.2018

For some of us, this phrase draws up a vision of Owen Wilson and Jackie Chan in a bathtub together, juiced up and sloshing around. Dear reader, if you've watched Shanghai Noon, you know what BKC's new Spanish restaurant is encouraging us to do, even before you visit. Uno Más means “one more”, and the accent on the a is critical; without it, mas means but.

Indeed, more is easily had here. The first page offers tiny plates “para picar”: citrus-marinated aceitunas (olives) in three pretty little connected bowls (for picks and pits); tangy, salty, slightly chewy home-cured boquerones (anchovies) alongside a paper cone of store-bought potato wafers; bright and juicy pan con tomate, delicious with or without slices of fat-laced, ruby red, deeply floral jamon Iberico. Only naranja – peeled slices of orange in a chilli-olive broth – sounds better than it tastes, because the flavours of the spice and oil are as hard to find as Uno Más itself.

Account for extra travel time, and prepare to circle around and back up. Uno Más is in a brand new office building in BKC, and it's easy to miss the turn that leads to it, off BKC Road. There is a chance you might land up in a chaotic pile of cabs looking to refill their CNG tanks. Once inside, ask for a Maestro; you have earned it. Here, the tequila is aged with maple-date syrup, and stirred with sherry and chocolate bitters. It is dark, deeply aromatic, slightly sweet, and goes down easy, helping you settle into the warmly lit room. The two-level spot is vintage European, with plenty of Spanish flair via painted tiles, heavy wood and rattan seating, columns, archways, and a massive U-shaped marble bar. It could be anywhere.

Also transportive is Shroom, a blend of bourbon, smoky whiskey, scotch, mushroom-maple cordial and just the slightest whiff of truffle oil. With it, tapas – four juicy buff albondigas, each smaller than a ping pong ball, just about holding it together in a thick sweet-spicy salsa brava. The menu recommends three to four tapas per person, and the prices and sizes of portions at Uno Más, make this eminently possible. We can't keep our fingers off broccoli a la brasa, charred florets in a chilli-lemon vinaigrette. There is filigreed tortita camarones, a wisp of a pancake studded with shrimp and flecks of onion. It looks delicate but it's a salt lick – keep a jug of water handy.

At Uno Más, a dinner for two can go two ways: tapas or paella. Have enough of the former and you have no room for a platter of the latter, pick the latter and you get FOMO about the former. We console ourselves with dessert. The tarta naranja is everything the naraja tapas isn't – deeply flavourful, layered and textural, its buttery crumb carrying a head-filling orange aroma under a crackly caramelised top.

Yes, we skipped the paella in a Spanish restaurant, and for it we'll give Uno Más una visita más.

Getting there: Inspire BKC, Ground Floor, Unit 2, BKC Road, call 022 2652 1155. A meal for two is approximately Rs 3,000 with a drink each.

bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.

Roshni Bajaj Sanghvi, a graduate of the French Culinary Institute in NYC, lives in Mumbai and writes mostly about food and travel for many a publication. She’s a contributing editor at Vogue magazine, and her words have also been found in Conde Nast Traveller, Mint Lounge, Scroll.in, The Hindu, Saveur, The Guardian, and Travel + Leisure, among others. She's crazy about obscure ingredients, and she always knows where to go back for seconds. You can find her on Instagram and Twitter at @roshnibajaj.

Wake up to daily updates on what to eat/shop/do in your city

Show me more
Food & Drink