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29.11.2017

Moving into Todi Mills and shedding all that Blue Frog baggage, Toit has transformed the space with their easy Bangalore vibe. The high, glass-tiled roof floods the interior with sunlight and at night, soft lighting and high wooden beams lend the space an estate-bungalow meets cabin-in-the-woods cosiness. Still, there’s rock on the radio and a performance space for live music, so the music hasn’t died completely.

Brew Can Do

We didn’t bother with beer samplers, but if you're a first timer, we recommend Toit Weiss, a Bavarian Hefeweizen, full-bodied and made for easy drinking, with notes of banana and clove in a tall glass of deep amber with thick white head. Tintin Toit, a fruity ale is pale yellow with hints of citrus and herb. For non-beer drinkers, the Permit Room cocktails are cheeky and delicious. Grandma's Magic Rasam is a whisky-based drink laced with curry leaves and green chilli, rimmed with rasam powder and salt. Fruity Kosambari, made with gin, cucumber and grated coconut is a delicious south Indian take on the Cucumber Collins. Our only grouse is that the Machu-Pichu-inspired levels can be hazard, several drinks down.

Chips A’ Hoy!

For a nibble at the bar, pick Okra ‘Podi’ chips, slivers of okra and curry leaf deep fried to a perfect shade of crisp, rustling deliciously as you reach into the bowl for your nth handful. Kerala beef fry is unlike anything you’ll find in the city – served on flaky coin parathas, each morsels of beef is fiery yet tender, showered generously with dried coconut.

An equally decadent treat from the city of the Nizams is Haleem Samosa, cocooning a smooth and delicious mutton pate’ inside a light, buttery casing. The side of tamarind chutney acts as court jester, lending playfulness to the whole affair. Brain Dry Fry gets full points on presentation – served in deep-fried potlums, it is spicy, textured and moist – everything you want from a plate of brains, really.

Frankly, Not the Wurst

Vegetarians, you’d do well to order an artichoke and sundried tomato pizza. True to its Bangalore reputation, Toit delivers on the pie – on a thin crust, deliciously blistered in spots, the artichokes are velvety and ‘meaty’ enough to satiate even the staunchest carnivore. If a spicy pizza is your jam, the Goan sausage is an excellent choice, topped with a generous portion of sausage; acidic, spicy and wholly authentic.

The Holy Grind

If there is room for dessert, be sure to sample some of the Filter Kaapi Pot de Crème. Creamy, and made with what we suspect is the most authentic south Indian filter coffee in the city, it is topped with delicate coconut shavings and a side of that Kerala favourite sure to make every Malayali heart skip a beat: banana fritters.

Getting there: Mathuradas Mill Compound, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel. Phone: +91 9324555223, a meal for two costs approximately Rs. 3,000.

Accessibility: The restaurant is split over several levels.

This review was conducted by Anisha Rachel Oommen, food journalist and co-founder of The Goya Journal.

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Food & Drink