The best of what to eat/shop/do in your city, delivered in a brown paper bag

Wake up to daily updates in your inbox

21.03.2018

There’s not much to say about this new restaurant, which is the kind of middle-of-the-road eatery that the city seems to excel at. A grab bag of options can be found on the menu, which includes khachapuri (Georgian cheese-filled bread), naked burgers and stuffed dosas. Like the food, the frills too are Instagram-bait - dreamcatchers hover above outdoor tables and pinwheels spin on the ceiling inside. The splashes of Santorini blue from previous tenant Thalassa remain, reminding us of a sad sunset.

Pound of Flesh

Service while courteous is perfunctory. Our table seems to be forgotten; we wave for help at first, and then resign to our fate, like a pair of marooned survivors.

We’re spotted soon enough though, and the island sends help in the form of smoked whisky potions, laced with fragrant vanilla and spiked with enough Earl Grey to calm us down. It is our fault for trying the very, very green Almost A Detox cocktail, where gin just doesn’t seem to get along with kale juice. The cucumber and ginger don’t help; better drunk as a vrigin smoothie.

In other hues, the avocado prawn and watermelon tartare is less tartare and more layered salad, and definitely worth skipping. The khachapuri, Georgian cheese-filled bread is topped with artichoke, sundried tomatoes, pinenuts, goat cheese, mushroom and sumac onion. Not cheesy enough, but it’s a competent twist on flatbread. Also on the appetiser list is jazzed up kulchas, avo toast and gifts from a grill.

Rupee Kaur’s Milk And Honey

The mains are equally all over the map, with naked burgers, dosas and posh shwaramas sharing space with one-dish meals. We sample the coconut milk-heavy Hokkaido curry, which truth be told tastes more like a one-note Massaman; and a crsipy dosa with near-perfect duck balchao (points for the fried egg cooked on the inside). Note to three accompanying slices of avocado: it’s better if you stay home the next time around.

Our last order is supposed to be a black forest cake reinterpreted with a Japanese twist, but what appears seems to be stale cake sitting underneath a heavy milky glaze, more London fog than Kyoto spring.

Hey bard, might we suggest a re-write?

Getting There: The Looney, The Lover and the Poet, Shubhangan Hotel, 21st Street, Khar (W). Open from 7pm to 1am daily. Meal for two is around Rs 4,000.

bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.

Accessibility: Getting into the restaurant from the front requires that you climb a flight of stairs.

This review was conducted by Aatish Nath, a freelance food and travel writer.

Wake up to daily updates on what to eat/shop/do in your city

Show me more
Food & Drink