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Editors Note: An earlier bpb review of Rodeo Pizza was redacted on Monday. This is a new review, conducted by different authors, based on a fresh visit. Our apologies to both readers and the restaurant management for the earlier miscommunication.

It’s been a big week for pan pizza in the bpb world: Sam Sifton of the New York Times ignited our craving for one first, bright and early on Monday, describing the ubiquitous Pizza Hut version as “buttery of crust and stringy with salty cheese, swabbed with sweet red sauce.” We can't help but think of that as we sit many latitudes away and dig into an Oozy Margherita at Rodeo Pizza in Versova, a pie adolescent enough to please the most petulant teenager.

And reader, we mean that in a (mostly) good way.

We may never have tackled a cheesier pizza in our lives, with the stuff both oozing out of and smothering a double crust. Somewhere under there is a slick of pleasingly spicy sauce, and we recommend you scrape off the cheese to do it, and the yeasty, pillowy crust, enough justice.

More grown up but just as much fun is a Fire & Spice pizza, where the same fat crust is topped with spicy chicken, zesty sauce and (thankfully) less cheese. Get through a small one of these, and you’re all set for the rest of the day. We wish we could say the same for a Farm Fresh veggie pizza, served on a thin, mealy crust with tiny diced veggies that don't feel that fresh at all.

But if you’re looking for veggies, Rodeo Pizza isn’t for you. Housed in a tiny storefront coloured in eye-popping reds and roaring with the blast of a exhaust fan (not to mention constant chatter amongst staff of the state of their hairnets and whether to accept the latest Zomato order), this little eatery works only when you accept it for what it is: a mom-and-pop version of Pizza Hut circa 1990, when all we wanted from a meal was bread and cheese and grease.

We think about that time as we dig into dessert, lava cake that’s pleasingly chocolate-y, but homemade enough for our favourite neighbour to have baked. We’d come back from school and have one waiting in the kitchen, a welcome fortification for the chemistry tuitions stretching out before us. Maybe after, we could go out for pizza.

Those were the days, huh?

Getting there: Rodeo Pizza, JP Road, Versova, Andheri W, 3395 6165. A meal for two costs approximately Rs. 1,100.

bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.

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