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02.05.2018

If you need a new kidney (bean), this is probably the time to ask friends that live in Chowpatty. Chances are, they’ll say yes.

Because they’re ecstatic.

See, not only did their neighbourhood just get a new all-veg nacho place, but New Yorker has also re-opened after a short hiatus. It’s fiesta time, and somewhere, a girl called Hetal in a building called Hawal Mahal, is scribbling ‘Hetal Hernandez’ in a note book over and over again.

Cry Me A Riviera

Chowpatty has had a long, loving relationship with desi-Mexican food, which is probably why New York Burrito Company, new on the block, is already bustling.

We peruse the herbivorous menu at a long self service counter, consisting of paneer, sofritas, potatoes, soy beans, mushroom and Tex Mex veggies. Keeping the neighbourhood’s Jain clientele in mind, the menu helpfully stars what can be eaten by them.

First, we scoop up some nachos - the chips aren’t made in-house - which sit idly under a heap of chopped tomatoes, onions and Trump-coloured cheese sauce. They’re disappointing, more masala papad than Mexico. Undeterred, we sample a Mexican bowl of brown rice, black and pinto beans, paneer, guacamole, sour cream (which is too thin to be considered cream at all), cheese, lettuce and spicy salsa roja. The bowl never quite comes together, but has potential if the guac is more generous and the cheese moves beyond just adding colour. To give credit where it’s due, the beans don’t taste like rajma (here’s looking at you, Quattro).

Last, we bite into a mushroom and cheese quesadilla, which includes a generous layer of pinto beans and concentrated flavours to turn up the right amount of heat. The best thing we have all night, it’s a convenient little snack; easy to order, run out of the restaurant with and scarf down in a moving taxi.

Also on the menu are tacos, Mexican potatoes and chips with salsa and guac. Better avoid the drinks which are surprisingly served in plastic cups; New York Buritto Company otherwise responsibly uses wooden cutlery, and paper serving dishes.

With a level of customisation that should keep those who like the food coming back, its quite plausible that even people on the fence will make multiple visits here to hit upon a combination that works for them. And maybe you’ll spot Hetal with her notebook in the back, dreamy eyed and sipping on a dragonfruit lemonade.

Getting there: Ground floor, Fulchand Niwas, Dr NA Purandre Marg, Chowpatty Meal for two costs approximately Rs 500.

bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.

Accessibility: There is one step off the pavement to enter.

This review was conducted by Aatish Nath, a freelance food and travel writer.

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Food & Drink