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17.09.2018

Getting to a restaurant in Mumbai’s current traffic snarl can feel like you’re heading to a Restaurant At the End of the Universe. Are we there yet?
 
Probably not.
 
This season, sit back – if you live between Bandra and Cuffe Parade – and let the ‘real’ Milliways send food to your shuttle. Named for the restaurant in Douglas Adam’s The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy, Mumbai’s incarnation is run by chefs Ashwin Ramachandran (ex ITC Hotels) and Yash Rajpal (ex Pa Pa Ya, Colaba) and delivers baos, salads, pho, ramen and rice bowls.

Home delivered ramen can be either out of this world or just other-worldly and we’re happy to point our chopsticks to the former phrase on the board.

Mars Group Of Restaurants
 
Home delivered ramen can be either out of this world or just other-worldly and we’re happy to point our chopsticks to the former phrase on the board. At Milliways, the broth is packed in an insulated pouch with a re-sealable spout, and it arrives hot. In a microwave-safe plastic bowl, you’ll find a selection of vegetables like bok choy, corn and bean sprouts over noodles and in our case, chicken (they were out of chasu pork belly). The cherry on top is half a soft boiled egg, its yolk glistening under our kitchen lights. Pour the broth into the bowl and savour, or then microwave the whole dish once, if you’d like it piping hot. A sprinkle of togarashi and seaweed rounds out the dish.
 
Our miso ramen, made with fermented bean paste, has a complex, umami-rich broth. It’s no Izumi, but it’s still good, especially if you’d rather not stand in line for an hour to get your noodle fix. We also sample chilled spinach and soy-marinated eggplant, which is beautifully presented. A nutty sesame dressing ties the salad together with a sprinkling of sesame seeds for texture. The plastic bowl that it comes in though, has us worried about our carbon footprint.

We also sample chilled spinach and soy-marinated eggplant, which is beautifully presented. A nutty sesame dressing ties the salad together with a sprinkling of sesame seeds for texture.

Sun, Moon & Baos
 
The baos, which have to be ordered as duets, are fluffy and liberally filled. In the tofu bao, the tofu is cut small, making it easy to bite into – although crispier tofu skins would be welcome - and liberally coated with a black pepper sauce that adds heat without numbing the palette. Pickled carrots and mushrooms add crunch and complexity.
 
An order of prawn crackers has us reaching into our fridge to crack open a beer; its satisfying crunch and spicy-saltiness seems perfect to nosh on before diving in to the order. We enjoy eating the crackers alongside a lamb Redang bowl, which is served with turmeric and lemongrass infused rice. Lavish pieces of lamb and roasted potato under a thick coconut curry are topped with crunchy fried onions. With a base of aromatics that adds to the creamy coconut notes, this, like the ramen, is a great one-bowl meal.
 
Mission Mousse
 
The vegetarian pho is the only dish we will not order again as the broth falls flat, in the absence of depth and flavour. Perhaps a non-vegetarian variant would have benefited from meat stock.
 
To end, there’s a single chocolate mousse on the menu that’s rich and dense — the opposite of our meal’s subtle, layered flavours.
 
Hopefully in a couple of weeks, the kitchen’s top heavy imagination will trickle down to the dessert section too. Until then, we’ll have another bowl ramen, please!
 
Getting there: Orders can be placed via Scootsy or Zomato, a meal for two is approximately Rs 1,000.
 
bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.
 
This review was contributed by Aatish Nath, a freelance food and drink writer.

Photo Credit: Sorted Food

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