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29.10.2018

Don’t look just yet, but the bad juju surrounding the space that used to be Nico and its many avatars – the latest of which was the bizarrely named Henpecked – might finally be dispelled.

At Millennials (speaking of bizarre names), the proof of new management is first in the pizza – Nico’s wood-fire oven has been removed, the pie replaced by a shareable stone oven Neapolitan version. Ours arrives topped with zucchini, tomato, onion and asparagus, with fresh arugula thrown in for good measure. Nico’s ingredients used to be fresher, we reminisce, and we preferred the thinner crust.

The pizza, however, is probably the only thing about Nico that we’re nostalgic about. On the Friday evening we visit, the spot is buzzing more than it has been in a while, nudged along by a Millennials House Party (complete with DJ and too-loud-for-conversation music). 

The interiors are woefully unimaginative, with tired Bharat Tiles contrasting against grey walls. Seating features a jumble of styles, with awkwardly low tables and high chairs. Adding to the cacophony is the cricket match on a big screen and the promise of free wifi. 

We hang at the bar with Manhattans and Old Fashioneds, potent enough to mellow out the noise. A plum basil mojito, piquant and sharp, provides a good counterpoint.

To go with our cocktails, we sample a veggie platter piled high with jalapeno poppers (cheesy with a kick), crispy beetroot tikki (crunchy but bland), paneer makhani quesadillas (exactly as they sound) and olive tomato bruschetta (generous with its toppings, but ultimately something you could whip up in your kitchen).

The menu also features a jumble of breakfast dishes, a whole page of iced and hot drinks, salads, burgers and mains. For our dinner, we sample the aforementioned pizza and a grilled fish in lemon butter sauce, charred but still flaky, made bright with citrus. The best part: it comes with creamy mashed potatoes, far more worth their calories than the stodgy slice of death by chocolate we ate for dessert.

Or you could just get another Old Fashioned. Dear millennials, that’s how it’s really done.

Getting there: 105 Mumbai Samachar Marg, Apollo Street, Opposite Laxmi Vilas Bank, Fort. Open from 11am to 1am. Meal for two from Rs 2,000-4,000.

Accessibility: There is a short flight of steps to get up to the restaurant.

This review was conducted by Aatish Nath, a freelance food and travel writer.

bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.

Photo Credit: Zomato

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