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14.10.2019

With Candies steps away, German Bakery will have a tough time getting wilkommened into the city. However, like Osho's most loyal devotees, we heed the call and make a trip. The bakery offerings stand up, but dear reader, stay away from the coffee. Read on to know why.

German Bakery feels a lot like an out-of-towner’s idea of what a Bandra café should be - hand painted walls and lots of twee coffee-themed frames. The outdoor section should fill up when the weather gets better, but until then your conversations will compete with the too loud music.

There's a lot on the menu that still isn’t available, even two weeks after opening: we make the most of it and order a fluffy spinach and mushroom omelette; plus bangers and mash. The eggs don't hold a candle up to Zoe's airy offering (RIP) but they're hearty, home style and served with smashed potatoes. The bangers and mash is better, thanks to a solid meat sauce that could do with a touch of acid. You'll be able to make a meal of the dish, which is garnished with fresh rosemary and is the kind of European comfort food that's falling out of favour as the focus shifts to regional Indian fare.

Also on our table is a portion of fish and chips which comes with delicious tartare sauce. The well-crusted fish is a great light meal, or an easy sharing option if you're just feeling graze-y. The exterior gives way to flaky white meat that’s cooked well, without drying out.

We wash these down with a batch of woefully disappointing drinks, iced Americano reminiscent of Nescafe and hot chocolate that brings back traumatic childhood memories of Bournvita before school.

Thankfully, the bakery at German Bakery invokes better nostalgia, memories of road trips to Pune and time spent at the Koregaon Park original (it’s since expanded to Lonavala and now Mumbai) - where the apple pie is always warm and the baked chocolate cheesecake dense and rich.

We dig into the pie and are suddenly fourteen again, on our first friends-vacation, with the whole weekend ahead of us and big plans to sneak into Thousand Oaks for a drink. Those were the days.

Getting there: Shop 20, ONGC Building 5, HIG Colony, Nityanand Nagar, ONGC Colony, Reclamation, Bandra (W). 8am-11.30pm. Meal for two Rs 1,000.

bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.

Aatish Nath is a freelance food and travel writer based in Mumbai. He can be found on Instagram at @aatishn

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