It’s fight or flight on Thursday night at Gateway Taproom, and we’re in no mood to battle the competing voices over which beer to order first; so we opt for a flight instead (4 tasters for Rs 440).
Many around us have the same idea, which might explain why the energy is 4x tonight at BKC’s newest bar and restaurant. Joining Toast & Tonic and Hello Guppy in shouldering the Godrej BKC building, this ground-floor space is like a fancy canteen, with a fully equipped bar (not just beer), bursts of greenery and a massive community table.
Put Your Wheat-Belt On
We score a bench by the window and strap in for our flight. Many of the seven ales and one lager offered here we’ve tried before, as have you, ever since Gateway launched its craft beers back in 2014.
Our four-pack contains all-time favourite White Zen, Hefeweizen with notes of banana and clove; Doppelganger, a dark brew with a sweet caramel finish; Side Car cider that’s too sweet for our liking; and beautifully bitter Flip Flop IPA.
The two stand-out beers for us tonight are frothy, creamy Kaapi Stout made from South Indian single estate coffee; and Monk’s Potion, a Belgian-style dark ale infused with Earl Grey tea and roasted coriander seeds that leave a cooling finish.
Dip into beer cocktails, starting with crisp Gin Zen (gin and wheat beer), not unlike a cold-hearted lover who intoxicates by playing hard to get.
Give Details, Dikra
The specials menu reminds that we’ve dropped by on Navroze, which means it’s really okay to order another round. Happy New Year! Parsi-inspired Punch nu Ale, as co-owner Navin Mittal explains on Instagram, is a combination of cold pressed guava and pineapple with wheat and barley malts, plus lemon, rock salt and cayenne pepper. We survive the shot tasting, but an entire glass of this would be too “mithoo, dikra.” How about a raspberry soda version next time?
Dip into beer cocktails instead, starting with crisp Gin Zen (gin and wheat beer), not unlike a cold-hearted lover who intoxicates by playing hard to get. For a warmer touch, Jim’s Kaapi Stout is a velvety potion of coffee, bourbon and beer.
That Thing You Edu
The kitchen at Gateway Taproom is set up by chef Viraf Patel of Café Zoe, who designed the menu to cut across genres. We begin with kale penne pesto, where a garlicky dominatrix muffles other flavours (the veggies need a safe word). Filet of miso bhetki, served on a fluffy bed of mashed potato cream and spinach, is beautifully cooked and flakes easily under its buttery crust. Our two picks from the Navroze menu too are excellent: salli par edu, a half fried egg served with potato matchsticks, gives every other version (except the one cooked by your aunt Franny) a run-ny for its money; and khattu mithu tamatar per edu, two half fried eggs floating over a soupy pool of tomatoes and green chillies, is served with buttery rye bread.
Our last treat is chunky chocolate cake dusted with sugar and presented with cider reduction so tasty, we want to swim in it.
Take a bow or a beer, chef.
Getting there: Godrej BKC Building, ground floor, unit no. 3, G Block, Bandra Kurla Complex (E), next to Fish and Bait, open from 5 pm to 1 am, call 26534748, meal for two costs approx Rs 2,500 with beer.
Accessibility: There is ramp access to the building and ground-level entry.
bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.
This review was conducted by Phorum Dalal, a Mumbai-based travel and food writer.
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