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06.12.2017

It’s almost set in (precious) stone, that few besides jewelers survive on the commercial strips of Waterfield Road in Bandra. So it must take much courage then for a waffle cone to stand up against the strength and allure of a diamond. And during an untimely storm too.

But even in the midst of rain and gust, Coppetto’s opening-day balloons are in tact, the gelataria’s astro turf wall telling us that it’s ready for all kinds of weather. It’s 7 pm on a Monday and those without umbrellas are reminded of one more loss: waffle cones are not available.

We peer despondently at the glace case, half its compartments dedicated to sorbet, and the other half to gelato. Owner and chef Nikhil Jain, we’re told, studied gelato making in the Emilia Romagna region of Italy, and is perhaps using his MBA degree to turn Coppetto into a chain. For one thing, it’s refreshing to see a dessert shop oblivious to Bandra’s current milkshake leanings and uncaring that a pistachio flavour may not be trendy. “It’s our highest seller, maam,” Vinod at the counter tells us.

And with reason. The swirl of green in our cup is earthy and aromatic, topped with finely sliced pistachios and elevated when teamed in the same cup with their dense chocolate flavour. After tasting a spirited guava (see PurpleFoodie’s recipe here) and tart, just-sweet-enough raspberry sorbet, the coffee gelato feels strong and comforting, like a firm handshake after closing a good deal. The milk-based Stracciatella gelato with streaks of dark chocolate tastes like the artisanal, evolved version of every Indian banquet hall’s vanilla-scoop-with-chocolate-sauce dessert. The smooth Cookies & Cream speckled with crumbs reinforces you for a couple of bites, but starts to get too milky and tiresome towards the end.

Remember that all flavours at Coppetto are 100% vegetarian; don’t fill you up and seldom taste too sweet or artificially flavoured, which makes them ideal to buy by the tub. Note(andads) to self.

Getting there: Coppetto Artisan Gelato, shop no. 3, plot 117, Muzaffar Manor, Waterfield Road, Bandra (W), call 09967677808.

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Food & Drink