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04.09.2017

It’s not quite like stopping in the mountains to pick your own fruit, but Bomberry makes a valiant effort to bring a bit of Mahabaleshwar to Midtown. The new café, a bright space with pastel trimmings and cane baskets, smells of farm and frankie, and will transport you, just for a minute, to a foggy morning at Hotel Anarkali, with eggs-toast-Horlicks for breakfast and a beautiful Red waiting at the gate. You’re eight years old, and there are strawberries and horses in your future. Your brother is your best friend. Life is sweet.
 
Where The Wild Things Are
 
So is our strawberry and kiwi smoothie, blended with banana, yogurt and honey, perfectly fruity and tart. All smoothies on the menu, Bomberry’s enthusiastic manager tells us, are made with strawberries, mulberries, gooseberries and raspberries brought down fresh from a farm in the valley.
 
Also available are thick shakes, frankies, fritters and corn bowls, designed to invoke peak lakeside-living. On a strawberry roll, we pick a strawberry creamery, and one with custard apple. The creameries turn out to be tall glasses of fruit, fresh cream and ice cream. The fruit and ice cream hit the spot, but we wish the whipped cream was less wimpy – we roll our eyes at Haji Ali Juice Centre too, but Bomberry will do well to take a page out of their playbook and score some of the fat, dense cream they offer.

All smoothies on the menu, Bomberry’s enthusiastic manager tells us, are made with strawberries, mulberries, gooseberries and raspberries brought down fresh from a farm in the valley.

Born & Bread
 
Next up is an Exotic Veg Pesto Panini, toasted with zucchini mushrooms, peppers and basil. The multigrain bread is delicious - and made especially for the cafe, we are told. However, the sandwich is charred to unpleasantness, and we can’t stomach more than half. Also disappointing are Arancini-sized balls of Jain Corn Fritters batter-fried with green chutney.  
 
Bomberry is most appealing as an unlikely health café – we spot a smoothie bowl on the next table, topped with oats and goji berries, a thing of beauty – offering the freshness of say, a Sequel, with less pretence and a smaller carbon footprint. Plus, the side of nostalgia, most magical of all: like dessert, but with none of the calories.  
 
Getting there: Bomberry, Ground Floor, Shop No.5, Hormuz Mansion, opposite Bhatia Hospital, Tardeo, call 87796 77584, Rs 1,170 for two.

bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.

This story was contributed by Anisha Rachel Oommen, a freelance food writer and editor of The Goya Journal, a digital publication focused on culinary storytelling. 

Image Credit: Lost and Hungry

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