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03.10.2017

Dear Reader, the Manhattanization of Malabar Hill is now complete. For evidence,  click through Bistapurfi.com, a Mumbai-based mithai-delivery service designed for alumni from Green Lawns who have moved on to greener pastures (plus pastries), and would like their malai burfi moulded into a tart, their laddoos daintily lifted in chopsticks, their kaju katli photographed against minimal, millennial pink backdrops - all the while staying true to their roots, of course: 100% vegetarian, Bistapurfi’s homepage screams, in big, bold letters.
 
Not immune to the charms of New York ourselves, we eagerly await our order, which arrives 24 hours after a very congenial exchange over the phone and then email, right in time for Sunday dosa lunch.
 
Candy With Cracks
 
Neatly packed and miraculously transported without any breakages, we line the dainty desserts on the dining table and patiently wait while our whole family Instagrams in the slanting afternoon light. Mousse cakes are perfectly formed domes in pastel orange and bright pink, so gratifyingly “from abroad” that we almost don’t mind their lackluster taste, the marriage of motichoor and carrot cake that looks great but doesn’t quite feel right. Ahem.

Much better are bite-sized truffles, which walk admirably the tightrope between eclectic and indulgence, with herbaceous Sweet Paan (fresh betel leaf + gulkand + Belgian chocolate) even tastier than creamy passion fruit & sesame, perfect tea-time snacks.

Similar dissatisfactions can be leveled at the tarts and bars. Aside from the fact that the crusts are a bit on the well-done side, they too taste over-the-top in an ostentatious, pointless way, with the addition of white chocolate ganache and raspberry dark chocolate reminding us of the orchids we saw at a cousin’s wedding, flown down from Hong Kong, incongruous amongst all the marigold.
 
Much better are bite-sized truffles, which walk admirably the tightrope between eclectic and indulgence, with herbaceous Sweet Paan (fresh betel leaf + gulkand + Belgian chocolate) even tastier than creamy passion fruit & sesame, perfect tea-time snacks.
 
A Stranger in Mos-chow
 
Ultimately, Bistapurfi’s fusion desserts don’t bring anything new to the table, like Indian Accent’s Mishti Doi Cannoli or Bombay Canteen’s Jack Fruit Tart Tatin did. Nor do they help us view traditional sweets with a contemporary eye. They do however, satiate a deeper, different kind of hunger, and that’s no mean feat.
 
Getting there: Visit www.bistapurfi.com or call +918369491592, truffles start at Rs 199 for a box of three, delivery in Mumbai and limited delivery in Delhi and Bangalore.
 
bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.

This review was conducted by Auroni Mookerjee, a freelance writer and chef.

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