The Boston Butt is reminiscent of a cabin in the woods, decorated with taxidermy busts and hung with sharp meat cleavers that would warm cockles of a serial killer’s heart. The blades are put to good use here, at this new charcuterie and bar, sinking into sturdy pork shoulders and glazed ribs, which are served alongside Steampunk era beer while you lounge in leather armchairs.
The vibe is southern America with a modern-day braise, and the menu feels like it was written by a chef first and pit-master second, as no cut of meat is presented by the joint or rack. Instead, you see daintier, smarter interpretations of that same southern spirit.
Let’s go from vibe to vodka, which when mixed with kadi patta in the Zayn Malik-Azealia Banks’ spat-inspired Curry Scented Bitch, does a great job of toning down tartness of cranberry juice and sweetness of dates. The result is a reason for round two, but we suggest you try instead Risque Whiskey, a cranberry and bourbon cocktail balanced by the additions of sage and cardamom.
Fill up your booth with friends and fillets, beginning with St. Louis Style ribs, glossy with peppery-vinegar glaze; and calamari that melts in your mouth, distracting accompaniments (shallots, chilli, garlic) notwithstanding. When paired with smoked halloumi, however, the same frills make for an innovative rendering of chilli paneer.
The buffalo lollipops, our favourite small plate of the night, are fiery, piquant, juicy and accompanied by indulgent gorgonzola dipping sauce.
Root vegetables, while pleasantly earthy (a special shout-out to the whole onion, which manages to retain all its savoury sweetness without any of the nasty pungency) are strangely served on a bed of salad as opposed to roast or steak; and buffalo lollipops, our favourite small plate of the night, are fiery, piquant, juicy and accompanied by indulgent gorgonzola dipping sauce.
I Like Big Butts
We’ll gush less about our mains, because beginning with Gumbo, the tide pulls in smelly shrimp; and the bread-to-meat ratio in our pulled pork sandwich is too high. The only dish we wipe clean is Asian style pork belly with pappardelle – think a great wok-tossed Chowmein of chilli, garlic, shredded smoked belly and silken egg noodles. We finish off the evening with a skillet cookie, well-worth its calories. Digging into it, one of our dining companions remarks: “Lock us in here all weekend, and we won’t mind the cabin fever.”
Amen to that.
Getting there:1st floor, Rampart Row, 30, K Dubash Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort, near Rhythm House, call 9892447669, a meal for two with one round of cocktails costs approximately Rs 3,000.
bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.
Accessibility: There is a flight of stairs separating the bar and the dining area with no wheel chair access.
This review was conducted by Auroni Mookerjee, copywriter, and chef at Grandma Mookerjee’s Kitchen and The Curry Brothers.
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