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23.09.2013

Dining at Dusit Devarana means that you’ll be distracted by the beautiful spaces around you. Remember our review last week? When you walk into Kiyan (their newly opened restaurant) you'll take your time staring at a massive tree where birds sit, which grows into the roof of the restaurant. C-shaped tables overlook multiple water bodies. Pretty leaves rustle. But focus on the food for a second – it deserves your attention. 

Soup-erior Experiences

Like us, begin with roasted tomato clementine soup, a silken broth with a single basil crostini and young orange confit, a family staple made sexy. Thai fish cakes are good too, arriving on a bamboo leaf, impossibly soft and infused with chili oil, Kafir lime and lemongrass. Vegetarians take heart, because the Khumb palak Tikka is up next, a thick, rich, juicy spinach kebab paired with mint sauce. 

Of A Pairadux

With portions strictly for one, the appetizers will only make you hungry for more. Offset these with a big, burly main of Thai roasted duck, swimming in a hollowed dinner plate of iridescent tomato broth, pineapple chunks, and baby tomatoes. The burnished outer skin of the duck gives way to a soft inside complemented by gravy reduced with coconut. Pairing duck with a cocount flavoured gravy is a task, that Kiyaan did well- flavours ran strong and consistent in every bite.

Paneer soya masala and it's accompanying Dal makhani resonates a similar aesthetic. This dal tastes like it has spent hours on slow burn, with deliciously burnt buttery notes in every bite, and paneer is hollowed barrels of cottage cheese filled with soya chunks, raisins and almonds.

We know you don’t think you have any room left for Devarana Signature toffee pudding, but try and make some. An orange sesame crisp accompanies this deliciously sticky pudding, layered with shots of espresso. Night cap at Kiyaan's food is like the rest of Dusit's space: elegant, fresh and easy to fall in love with. 

Getting There: Kiyan, Dusit Devarana, NH-8, call 33552211. Rs 6,600 for a meal for two (without alcohol).

bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals

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