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Don’t be deceived by the name, this new Green Park restaurant has little to do with happy citrus fruit; neither is it a New-Age Thai café serving cold salads and noodles. Like elements of steam punk and wine ‘from the house’, almost everything here seems anomalous, random, or like a straight up mistake. Aside from a handsome waiter with a patrician nose – he is lovely.
 
Pomelos is right above Evergreen, which we recommend you stop at first, or after a large LIIT, the one thing Pomelos makes with aplomb, TGIF style. We walk in at dinner-time on a Wednesday evening to find sob, no one. We compete with the Coke Studio tracks on high volume to own up to our reservation, and score a table by the window, overlooking mithai and fruit shoppers gearing up for the festivities.
 
Artificial flowers rub up against our legs as we make our way through the mosaic menu, which jumps from Puglia-inspired pizza to mutton curry within a few short breaths. Sinking in to the comfortable leather chairs, we remind ourselves to give the place a chance, and order another cocktail – lemongrass infused gin. Seconds later, the multi-colored fairy lights on top of the artificial flowers switch on, ad we really start to clutch on to our last straws of faith.

Artificial flowers rub up against our legs as we make our way through the mosaic menu, which jumps from Puglia-inspired pizza to mutton curry within a few short breaths.

The cocktail that is supposed to rescue is deliriously sweet, sunset pink, and way too skimpy on the gin. Thankfully, our food order starts to roll in as well, and while the dishes don’t make up for the mistakes of the establishment, they don’t do further damage.
 
For starters, sole fish tikka is soft and flavorful, but almost too delicate to eat. We would love a little more char in the chargrilled. Our dinner companion describes his main course – a south Indian meat curry – as “smooth and uncomplicated,” quite unlike the rest of the restaurant. Upon polishing half his plate, he adds that he is quite happy with the spice quantities too. We compare notes with our Paneer Lababi, creamy and butter chicken thick. Definitely edible, and even borderline tasty, we give this plate a nod for the little oil used and the decently flaky Malabarparathas that come with. Our plans for a full on chaat meal downstairs dwindle to just sweets.
 
As we pay the bill and make our way out, we ask about the owner’s vision for Pomelos. A manager explains that it, like the owner – and the restaurant name, and use for the property – keeps changing. Maybe the next avatar will be better?
 
Getting there: S-27, Green Park Extension, Green Park, New Delhi, call 011 4170 6637, Rs. 3,500 for dinner and a round of cocktails (doggy bag included).
 
bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.

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