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10.01.2017

Pamposh Enclave, a magical corner of GK-I with ample parking, adds to its charms a new restaurant serving dishes from Sikkim and Nepal. Nimtho, located above a store that sells organic groceries from Sikkim, also uses mainly organic produce, we’re told. Who wouldn’t believe it in their cosy room full of wicker furniture and woven baskets? 

Momo Sapiens

Nimtho plays no music, serves no alcohol, and really delivers on the “slow” in the “simple, slow-cooked” food it offers. (Don’t pick this for a first date venue unless you’re very sure of success, reader.) 

Nimtho, located above a store that sells organic groceries from Sikkim, also uses mainly organic produce, we’re told. Who wouldn’t believe it in their cosy room full of wicker furniture and woven baskets? 

We start with jhol momo or soup momo, a Nepali delicacy featuring juicy, buff dumplings in curried tomato broth that leaves us feeling toasty in minutes. A chilli momo takes the heat up another notch; this fiery vegetarian dish is enjoyable, but stay away if you don’t fancy the nutty crunch of bamboo shoots. 

Taipo, a dish of steamed buns stuffed with chicken and egg, is less successful. The boiled egg dries out the bun, and the filling is insipid. We’re also confounded by why the restaurant recommends sesame fried chicken: it’s murg chikki, and rather bland at that. We lap up every last bit of the broth that arrives with our momos and polish off the deep-fried pastry our waiter keeps bringing out, but we’re not ready to call ourselves Nimtho-maniacs yet.

Beak Satisfaction

Our mains turn the meal around. Nimtho’s chicken thukpa is the best we’ve eaten in the city: perfectly cooked noodles and chicken swim in light, flavourful broth. Also delightful is “khuri,” rolled buckwheat crepes stuffed with seasonal vegetables. This Sikkimese dish feels like a new-age, organic take on old-school spring rolls, but it is a welcome makeover. 

To follow, there’s pork saag, roasted pork cooked in mustard greens: meat and leaves combine beautifully in the lightest pork curry we ever remember eating. Its clear that Nimtho shines at simple yet sharp flavours. Our last dish, off-the-menu sabudana kheer, is standard fare and strictly average.

Nothing other than the chicken thukpa really elevates Nimtho to world-beating standards. And yet, this is one of the nicest comfort meals Delhi’s offered us in a long time. In a city where so many like to dream of past-life connections with the mountains, this little restaurant gives a sense of the home you might have had back then. 

Getting there: Nimtho, 1st Floor, R Block Market, Pamposh Enclave, Greater Kailash (GK) 1, a meal for three (without alcohol) will cost around Rs 2000. 

Accessibility: The restaurant is on the first floor with no elevator access.

bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.

This review was contributed by Amrita Mahale, a former rocket scientist now working on her first novel.

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