The smoked bone marrow may have only just met us, but we’ve been hearing about it for almost a year now. So often Gautam Krishnankutty and Padmakumar Pillai of Thulp Café have Instagrammed work-in-progress versions of it, that we can almost taste the beautifully seasoned, gooey inside we are about to suck out of a blistered bone.
The Smoke Co., a much awaited barbeque pit from the Thulp tongs, is the result of Mr Krishnakutty's affair with cuts of meat, but also the need to season them with love and make sure they're never sent out alone into the big bad world of diners. Enter citrus chutneys, sourdough bread and brioche bun escorts, so you can think of the buff burger as more than just a piece of meat.
Similar smoking techniques cannot be applied to the drinks we order, because the liquor license (and hence the smoked cocktails) hasn’t arrived yet. And so other intoxications arrive in shot glasses, beginning with an unimaginably silky chicken liver pate with a thin layer of crunch on top. A combined mouthful of this pate, pickled okra and crusty bread is a mini meal we’ll be thinking about for a long time.
Large window panes let the light in on other small plates offering the previously mentioned bone marrow served with a side of sourdough and onion jam; and a neatly packed pork terrine that isn't afraid to turn on its slow-cooked charm. With citrus chutney on the side.
Vegetarians or those who recently watched Okja on Netflix, there’s always salad; we get an earthy one built with smoked eggplant, baby onions and roasted peanuts.
Greedily, we decide to get more, and ‘more' here is best received via the mixed platter. This is a bountiful tray of juicy pulled pork; sausages, chicken ones rubbed with curry leaf green chutney and pork Andouille ones that are full of chillies; and dry barbeque chicken that lacks heat and heft.
We recommend two add ons for the fantastically loaded, furiously messy brioche buffalo burger: smoked bacon (of course), and a smock. Vegetarians or those who recently watched Okja on Netflix, there’s always salad; we get an earthy one built with smoked eggplant, baby onions and roasted peanuts.
And at the end, just a spot of sweet candied bacon finds its way on our luxe peanut butter chocolate ganache, reminding us that there is more than one way to achieve meat cute in Bangalore.
Getting there: 501, 6th cross, 6th block, Koramangala, call 8296394454. A meal for three without alcohol costs approximately Rs 5,000.
bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its meals.
Accessibility: Two steps up to the ground floor seating. A flight of stairs leads to the restrooms on the first floor. Valet parking available.
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