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29.11.2017

The most handsome Italian in Bangalore right now is tall and dark, beautifully built and bakes the best pizza this side of Naples. Make a date with the wood fired oven at The Pizza Bakery, Indiranagar’s new Italian restaurant.

Be still, my artichoke heart.

This new cafe with its gleaming marble tops, gold accents and hints of green patterns is made for Instagram. The outdoor seating is great for when you’re dining tout de seul, keeping you entertained by the chaos of 12th Main and its bounty of techni-colored flowers.

Larger groups, follow the narrow black stairwell to the sprawling indoor space upstairs where a recurring black and white theme has us half-expecting a white rabbit with a pocket watch to help solve our crust issues.

Pasta La Vista, Baby

While scanning the menu, we’re told that The Pizza Bakery uses 100% specially sourced natural wheat flour from Bangalore, free of any additives or enzymes. The dough is fermented for a minimum of 48 hours; expect an airy, flavourful base. Also, full points on the cheese; you wont find any of that processed stuff here. In fact, Father Michael and his merry monks’ hand-made Vallombrosa is a special on the board.

Strangely, hummus and lavash are also on the menu, and we can’t resist beginning our meal with it. The hummus is under-seasoned and lacks the depth that a confident hand of tahini provides, but the lavash is exceptional. Thin, almost translucent, studded with black sesame seeds on the inside, it has just the right amount of snap despite being so delicate.

The aglio olio parmesan wings must be tried, if you don’t mind getting your hands dirty. Tossed in chilli oil that is studded with golden, caramelised garlic slices — so sweet you might mistake them for raisins — and most delightfully, rings of pickled dried red pepper. The parmesan sprinkled on top, doesn’t stand out in the dish, but rounds out the garlic and chilli nicely.

Michael More

The pizzas here are made on a sourdough crust, and are of the Neapolitan variety. Doughy edges, with a thin, pull-y centre, the creamy Béchamel pizza, capped with ricotta, sliced potatoes, almonds and dotted with dollops of pesto is a meal unto itself. Top it with a blob of Father Michael’s famed burrata and you have a feast on your hands.

The lamb and chick pizza is rich with minced lamb ragu and chicken sausages, and doesn’t bother with anything that might distract from the meatiness. Just the way we like it.

Less appealing however is the TPB dark chocolate and espresso pizza. The consistency of the crust, which is perfect in the main course, is brittle and crunchy in the centre, and while the chocolate topping is certainly generous, the espresso fails to shine through.

Here stands this baked dessert, a reminder that surely, even handsome boys fail you sometimes.

Getting there: 2985, 12th Main, Indiranagar, HAL 2nd Stage, Indiranagar, call 49652607. A meal for two costs approximately Rs 2,400.

Accessibility: A flight of stairs to the first floor.

This review was conducted by Aysha Tanya, co-founder of The Goya Journal.

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Food & Drink