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17.01.2018

At his latest restaurant, Chef Abhijit Saha of Caperberry and Fava plates up Indian flavours in a packed elegant terrace on Museum Road. Nearly all of India’s popular foods are represented on the menu and there’s a bit of Indian fusion flavours too. Yet it doesn’t read like a periodic table, thankfully.

Elevating our mood instantly is a Coorg Espresso Martini, foamy with egg whites, sharp with a shot of tequila and sweetened with a touch of vanilla. Mango Rosemary with vodka and vermouth completely washes out the herb with synthetic mango juice. Serves us right perhaps, for wishing on a mango in January.

Picking the lamb tacos over pizza naan for starters, we dig into a baked biscuit-y taco topped with a delicious lamb raan, flaky and tangy. Eying a smoked chicken naan pizza at the neighbouring table, we sample a suitably silky pashmina kebab, warming our hearts with the decadent pistachio and saffron sauce. The server recommends the lamb curry of the day, which we pair with appams. Another gentle nudge and a dum biriyani is added to our order. You may not imagine appams pairing with a Rajashthani lamb curry, but they make for an interesting, suitable companion. Unfortunately, not particular to any region, our biriyani lacks character, sending us straight back to the arms of a creamy and delicate Kerala veg stew for comfort.

Dessert of the day is shaahi tukda with a white chocolate dome and a saffron pudding, which puts on quite a show melting away to reveal feather-soft insides. Unfortunately we end with gulab jamoon cheese cake, an a-salt on the senses, saturated with sugar and too rich. Should've quit when we were ahead.

Getting there: 3rd floor, No 15, Museum Road (above Nexus Showroom), call 08045128646 for reservations. A meal for two costs approximately Rs 4150.

Accessibility: Two steps to the elevator that takes you to the 3rd floor. Basement parking has wheelchair access. Valet parking available.

bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.

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Food & Drink