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12.10.2017

Indiranagar’s newest restaurant is designed to be a nod to the province of Bartin in Turkey, but baffling is the fact that the menu’s most European reference is pasta. Mosaic tiles, plenty of sunlight and elegant loungers are ultimately unable to rescue Bartin’s from what is essentially a Chinjabi meets Tex-Mex culinary experience.
 
What you Seekh is Seeking You
 
Afraid of the toll the food order is going to take on us, we keep the cocktail command simple: a cosmopolitan, garnished neatly with an orange peel is well balanced and light; and mojitos are a much-needed flash of summer on a rainy day.
 
Our first bite in ‘Turkey’ is a nacho chip – certainly one of the better chips we’ve eaten in the city – topped with salsa, sour cream and processed cheese. It is addictive no doubt, but nothing your mum couldn’t whip up with a can of baked beans and a bottle of store-bought hot sauce.
 
Gilafi Seekh Kebabs are far less charming; dry and chewy minced mutton with chunks of raw garlic spread through. Best avoided on date night. Grilled prawns baked with cheese however, are fun to eat, and demand your full attention — tiger prawns, head and shell still intact, are skewered and baked in a chilli marinade, with a final flourish of more cheese.
 
After the mains we’re wiser, and would now recommend that you visit Bartin for the sun, six or seven mojitos and a pot of mutton dum biryani. Even if the rice here is a little dry, the mutton is beautifully cooked. And while the salan on the side does nothing to improve the biryani, the raita offsets the steady heat that creeps in after a few spoonfuls.
 
Jamoon Glow
 
Dessert is jamoon with rabdi and Shahi Tukda. The rabri in both dishes tastes suspicious, as though hastily spooned from a tin, and the bread in Shahi Tukda is fried to a charred crisp. Saving Bartin is jamoon, soft and yielding, ensuring that our meal closes on a pleasant note.
 
We wish we’d have ended our Bartin tour here, out in the sun with Vitamin D and purple tongues.  But sadly, it climaxes on a higher floor in a room lined with navy blue faux leather couches, gold cushions and an empty dance floor, a dimly-lit vision of an unsuspecting someone’s sad weekend in Bartin.   
 
Getting there: Milestone 1211, 100 Feet Road Indiranagar, HAL 2nd Stage, Indiranagar, call +91 9980545043. A meal for two with alcohol costs Rs. 3,200. 
 
Accessibility: A short flight of steps followed by an elevator ride to the 3rd floor. 
 
This review was conducted by Aysha Tanya, co-founder at The Goya Journal, a bangalore-based digital publication focussed on culinary storytelling. 


bpb reviews anonymously and pays for its own meals.

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